On the sixth day of Hannukkah, the snow days gave to me…

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Largely useless modes of transportation.

Oy. Vey. We THOUGHT that the Met Office was wrong about the two weeks of snow – they’re so rarely right about anything at all that we were prepared to blithely ignore them as usual. We had two days of brilliant sun over the weekend in which the temps soared — soared, we say — to the low thirties/-3°C, and we thought surely that the snow would begin to melt. And it didn’t. It sat there. And looked smug.

Slowly, people begin to venture from their homes, armed with metal dust pans, and began scraping the snow from steps and walks… and last night, when we went to bed, the sky was clear. We expected more of the same this morning. Or, you know, rain. This IS Glasgow, after all.

Surprise. It’s snowing so hard everyone got sent home from D’s office today at ten to noon, the buses are not really running (we saw one towed downtown, and another slid into the curb right in front of the chiropractic office), and rather than waiting for elusive buses or cabs we walked home from downtown (T. slipped twice, but fortunately, just post-chiropractic appointment, managed to simply do the splits twice and keep walking. This freaks D. out to watch, for some odd reason, and there is much muttering about stubborn people who walk too fast.) with our umbrellas up, and still arrived home soaked to skin. It was a SLOG. Our appointment was at 10:30, and both of us get a fifteen minute adjustement. We left at ten ’til eleven, and though it was only two miles home or so, we got there after noon.

The most common sound in the otherwise silent city are car alarms, as the heavy snow shifts and slides, and the vROOOOOOOOOm, vROOOOOOOOOOOM! as vehicles spin their wheels, trying to back out of parking places and get up hills. It’s not happening. We saw a poor bride dressed in full champagne-colored finery WALKING UP THE HILL IN HEELS, together with her bridal party, all in scarlet sheath dresses, the four of them protected only by the flimsiest of umbrellas. We cannot frankly believe that they didn’t at least have boots in the car. (Or a coat, hello!? The gowns were sleeveless.) Their little satin shoes were utterly ruined within two steps from the car, and we’re pretty sure the bride was leaking sequins.

What a day to get married.

What a day, period. New snow factoid no one ever tells you: after a point, the stuff gets heavy. Also, it is possible to sweat and freeze at the same time without having the ‘flu.


Apple Cake 2

Speaking of the ‘flu and all other creeping cruds, we’ve remained remarkably well so far, still making it to the pool most days. Aside from D’s bum-bruising fall last week, nothing much too bad has happened to us, so we made applesauce cake to celebrate that. As far as T. remembers, the cake contained: 3 c. AP flour, 1 c. brown sugar, packed, 1/4 tsp. salt, 1 Tbsp. baking powder, 1 tsp. each freshly ground cinnamon, cloves, ginger; 1/4 c. plain yogurt, 3 Tbsp. oil, 2 c. chunky homemade applesauce (Ours is made with one Granny Smith and a bunch of Braeburns, so it tends toward tart).

She combined the dry ingredients, whipped together the yogurt and oil and added them to the flour mix, then turned in the chunky applesauce. We baked ours in a springform pan, but any 9″ round baking pan will do, or even a loaf pan.

Apple Cake 1

Bake at 350°F/175ºC for forty-five minutes, and you’ll have a moist, dense spice cake that has all the best flavors of autumn. It is REALLY tasty. If you’re taking it somewhere and not simply devouring it at home, cut out an intricate paper snowflake, set it on the cake and sift powdered sugar on top. Instant company food.

Today’s soup is butternut coconut curry, or it will be, as soon as the squash is slaughtered. What are you making?

On the 2nd day of Christmas Hannukah, the snow-days gave to me…

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An utterly useless post box… since Royal Mail has sent out an email advisory that they’re taking back their overnight service and special delivery guarantees… Obviously, “neither rain nor sleet, nor heat nor gloom of night,” is not really part of any postal service’s charter, and hasn’t been since 500 B.C., when that little phrase was written in reference to mounted Persian postal carriers. Apparently, THEY were told to deliver or die. That probably would make a difference to the attitude of the Royal Mail Postal Union…

Well, day six of Snow in the City, and the city is still just eerily quiet. School was canceled at the last minute on Wednesday — the districts put out the word at EIGHT-THIRTY A.M., inconveniencing parents everywhere. There was not a cab to be had for two solid hours Wednesday morning as parents who were already dropping off their kids or halfway to work received frantic phone calls. Many had to make calls from the road and organize caretakers for their kids, while others had to turn their cabs around and go BACK. (And you can bet those people hung onto the cabs they had.) D. walked to work — and was scolded. Apparently the office has an executive service he could have been using all along. We’re not that far, though, but it IS tricky getting down the rather steep hill which separates our end of the West End from Finneston. Fortunately there are cobblestones to give a little bit of traction, and if one stays on the snow and avoids the “cleared” bits (badly salted), it’s not bad.

Met Office claims that this weather will last for two weeks solidly. We’re getting to the point where we’ve calmed down about it, and we are enjoying the beauty, even as we brace ourselves to go out in it. Fortunately, the ice we feared for the most part hasn’t really happened city-wide — the snow remains as fluffy and powdery, and kicks up nicely as people cut across playgrounds and vacant lots, as we do on the way to the gym. On the other hand, D. has a.) had to retire a pair of shoes already and b.) has fallen once, which lessens our overall enjoyment of the whole thing. (Although he has a gnarly awesome bruise on his hip.) What’s worrying is seeing people struggling along with strollers. You’d think the City could at least issue shovels if THEY don’t want to take care of the sidewalks. Last night we watched a neighbor attack the stairs in front of his flat with a dust pan.

…this is truly not a city ready for snow. And yet, it looks like this every-winter thing (in a city we were told never had snow) …is the new normal.


The Soup We’re Sipping during this cold snap (of which we forgot to take a picture) is sweet potato! Sautée 1 onion in a broad saucepan. Add 3 small sweet potatoes, chopped into chunks, and four cups of veggie or whatever broth. Boil the potatoes down until they’re soft. Then, add 1 brick of silken tofu, 1/2 a can of coconut milk, 1 Tbsp red curry paste, 1 Tbsp. brown sugar, 1 Tbsp double-concentrated tomato paste, and 1 tsp garlic paste. We used the stick blender, garnished with a few shakes of curry powder, and voila. Obviously, you can choose not to add the tofu — sweet potatoes match well with curry, and will remind you of Thai food!

Shut the Window, Stop Gawping. Or Gaping. Or Whatever.

Around Glasgow 534

We woke up to Day 2 of the snow:

(Okay, some of us sound a little over-excited about the snow. It’ll pass.)

Yeah, that shopping trip? Simply not going to happen, not with cabs sliding precariously through the ice and people slithering along on inappropriate shoes on sidewalks all over the city. For the most part, the snow is still powdery, and the slush is gray and nasty — largely drivable, if one is careful. Cabbies aren’t always careful — and if we can’t get to where we want to go on foot, we’re just not going. Lots of books to read, lots of work to do, so there’s not much need yet to go out. Fortunately.

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Lauriston Castle

We enjoyed our little castle-ing (really, it was more of a stately home, not much of a castle) trip this weekend with so many Malaysian classmates — many of whom had never seen snow. It was a hoot to watch them as they shivered and squealed — and many of the kids got so wet they’re probably home sick right now — but they seemed to have so much fun. One little daredevil was leapfrogging rocks over a frozen pond in the Japanese garden. We were positive THAT wouldn’t end well – but it did.

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Japanese Gardens, Lauriston Castle

We did a little hiking through a graveyard — one of the sillier things we’ve done, as it was up steep stairs that aren’t well-maintained, and it was icy in Edinburgh this weekend. We carefully picked our way through the gates, up the hill and onto the grounds of the Old Calton Burial Grounds, gripping railings and walls and handholds. We found the grave of philosopher David Hume, which was a coup for D. with his recent Master’s in Philosophy. We also found a large statue of Abraham Lincoln. And no, he’s not buried there, so we weren’t sure what was up with that, but the plaque (what we could read of it beneath the caked snow) claimed that the memorial was raised in honor of Scottish soldiers fighting in the Civil War… and on the stairs sprawled beneath Lincoln’s upstanding form was the image of a slave. Hm. The Emancipation Monument was erected in 1893. We’ll have to get a different shot of it on a day when we’re not risking life and limb to get closer.

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That familiar profile you see on your pennies…

Emancipation Memorial, Calton Hill Burial Grounds

We’ll close our brief picture post with the most gorgeous tree in Edinburgh. Since it wasn’t snowing as heavily in Edinburgh, this tree took the opportunity to continue having autumn. As of this post writing, it’s snowing again, so the trees in Glasgow don’t have this choice, but the colors against the backdrop of that washed-out blue sky were a treat to see, and made our walk through the park even better. It reminds us that no matter how cold it is, or how many carols we hear, it’s still autumn, and we don’t have to rush to the next Big Thing unless we want to!

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That Awesome Tree, Princes Street Gardens

Candlelit! (And not because it’s the first Sunday in Advent)

O, the weather outside is frightful…

Odd, isn’t it, how those who extol the virtues of snow never make reference to how it strips the moisture from your skin, your sinuses, and your hair, nor do they discuss the painful ache in your fingers when they are SO. COLD., nor the unattractive shades of puce, blue, and lobster your face will turn after a few hours in -5°C (23°F) with a bit of a wind driving you on. They never mention how badly cold leaches you of energy or the ability to take a full breath, and how your muscles get a bit more tired than usual. Nope. They never say a thing about that. It’s all about the pretty. ::sigh::

We wakened yesterday with the first snow of the season laid down and pristine. It was gorgeous, and we saw both fox and goose prints in the two inches or so. (We also saw Mr. Fox, but all our photos of him were blurry. And the geese! Who knew they walked around so much on foot? Either that, or it’s really big crows, but they have more than three toes…) We were dubious about our trip, but we figured that since it was only a light snow, it was no longer snowing actively, and the salt trucks and all were out, things would be good. And we were fine. The bus had a few brief skidding moments before we hit the freeway, and we saw a few more accidents than usual, but all was well.

We arrived in Edinburgh with our group and just walked the city, ducking into doorways to photograph the Christmas Market fair, full of flashing lights and what must have been the coldest slide known to man (the workers were sweeping the snow off of it — I doubt they got many takers). The Ferris wheel rose above the city and from down below, the castle looked like a brooding white fortress. (As opposed to the brooding black fortress it normally looks.)

We walked for five hours in Edinburgh yesterday, chugging through the big city park, rambling through a graveyard, St. John’s Cathedral and then a castle outside of the city. While it was beautiful — and we have tons of lovely photographs to share with you soon — with the breezes blowing, it was ridiculous out. We hate it when we get housebound and don’t do anything in the dark gray days, but after heading toward Edinburgh and realizing it was snowing HARDER in Glasgow than it was there, and that clouds were building in Edinburgh … we realized we might have made a mistake in leaving the house.

That was T’s opinion before we even got started, of course. D. was hoping to do tons of photography, but T. knew it would be both cold and crowded in Edinburgh (her two FAVORITE things), and threatened to whine all day and call for copious mugs of hot chocolate as bribes (she surprised herself by doing neither) for having to be on a bus at 8:30 a.m. on a weekend morning. When we made it home at six o’clock, exhausted and tracking snow on our soaking wet cuffs and boots, we both groaned as the heat needled our cheeks. T. remarked, “I don’t mind the cold, but I just HATE being cold!”

There’s a fine line of distinction, you see. As long as it’s just snowing prettily through the window, see, it’s all good. When you’re foolish enough to be slogging through it (and in Edinburgh, as always, everyone and his dog are shopping, and it’s even worse with the Christmas Market going — thus the park and the graveyard, which were more lightly [live] peopled) dodging road traffic, foot traffic and just sheer aggravation — it’s miles worse.

And today is Day 2 of The Great Snow. It was snowing when we wakened. It has been snowing all day, off and on, and promises to continue to snow off and on, according to the Met Office, for two weeks. We are at eight inches now, and counting. Glasgow, a city where one can always find someone running down the street bellowing, singing tunelessly in front of the pub, puking behind the garbage cans, or pelting something at the seagulls, is remarkably, eerily quiet. We figure the partiers will come out when they run out of booze or get cabin fever. We expect that any hour now.

Meanwhile, we’re contemplating taking out the trash and making a dash across the street to pick up emergency rations from the gas station market (hopefully there’s anything left — although we doubt people really are in dire need of vegetables, so we’ll be fine). We were supposed to run to the Asian market this morning, but … thought we’d wait until the sun came out and the snow melted a bit. Yeah. Still waiting for that.

But we’re so grateful that the boiler is holding out. It’s wimpy, but it’s on, and, together with lighting all of the candles in the living room, we can get whole rooms warm!

Ah, the fourteen-foot ceiling. It seemed a good idea, at the time…

Pictures to come. Stay warm!

Once Upon Three Quarter Time

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Once upon a time in 1163, there was not much going on except for the Middle Ages, which meant a lot of farming and fleas and Lords and Ladies and possibly a bit of storytelling from Pliny the Elder. There was not much else but priests and popes (who were kind of war leaders and mafia heads instead of churchmen) and lots and lots of prayers as villeins and serfs strove to make sense of a world which was big and scary. And, there was a landowner who was in search of piety and decided to build an abbey on the site of a 6th century Celtic worship site. So, the landowner got his petition together. And soon, there were monks. The abbey lasted until the early 1500’s, when it started caving in after a minor earthquake.

Soonish after that was the Protestant reformation, when Martin Luther got tired of the “priests and popes” business. And then, there were Lutherans. And then, of course, they argued, so then there were Calvinists and Presbyterians. The abbey caved in the rest of the way, and nobody in Scotland had the courage to say they cared, else someone might have called them a Papist, and nobody wanted any of that kind of trouble. (Those Presbyterians were scary.)

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Typically, as soon as the dust settled, people’s staunch beliefs about architecture and worship lurched toward preservation a few hundred years later. No priests and popes, since post-reformation Church of Scotland remains safely Presbyterian, but by 1890 much of the original abbey had been restored. Now there were pastors and, um, parishioners. Much better for everyone. Apparently.

Sadly, at that time of reformation and reform, no one thought to put in central heating, which would have greatly enlivened worship from that time to the present.

!

Even with a full orchestra, a hundred and fifty plus choristers and about eight-hundred-and-fifty audience members (this is how many tickets were sold, anyway) a sandstone building in late autumn in Scotland is just freezing. Also, it’s a tough place to get ready for a concert. While we were given a lovely dressing room up an ancient spiral staircase (where one of the altos almost took a header, having caught her heel in the hem of her trousers), the abbey was not really prepared for a hundred and fifty people brushing up their look, for seventy or so women slithering into The Blouse of Hideous Purpleness (of which, you will note, you see no picture), of that many men trying to brush hair, tuck in black shirts, wash faces, and otherwise perk themselves up after a grueling three hour rehearsal. “The only place to get any electricity around here is if you unplug the organ,” one of the sopranos remarked dryly as she pulled her hair back in a serviceable bun. Not a lot of glitz or curls going on, except of the humidity-induced natural variety. Plain hair, plain faces, and a whole lot of long underwear and fervent wishes for gloves and scarves. Shivering singers.

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And yet, it was somehow still a fairly decent concert.

It’s strange to plenty of people that anyone can derive such enjoyment from singing requiems. They’re a bygone form of music; it’s rare for composers to come up with new work in the requiem form. The prayers, which are prayers for the souls of the dead, are fairly standard in the Catholic tradition. Since churches are no longer mainly made up of the wealthy who have enough dough to make others pray their immortal souls in a northerly direction, requiems are kind of — excuse the pun — dead. Even with all of the wars we have most people only pay lip service to worrying about the souls of the departed (well, most people who are a.) a Protestant or b.) hold a full-time job which doesn’t entail wearing a long black dress with a blue or black and white scarf thingy on their head. And even nuns probably have more duties than prayer nowadays.), and depending on your theological bent – or lack of one – there’s the whole question of whether any of it even matters or not. So, why do people even sing requiems?

Wellll… it’s because once upon a time in this same world, people died. Frequently. Rich people, poor people, popes and priests – somehow, death managed to equalize everyone. And because the prayers for the ease of the souls of the dead were sung so frequently and heard by so many, tradition (and some of those priests, likely) dictated that the prayers for the soul must also include terrifying reference to the day of judgment, the threat of death and hell, and sweet, angelic reminders of paradise. In adding all of this, the entire service because musically challenging. Great composers put their best efforts toward these requiems — and created intensely dramatic, powerful, and thrilling works of music which are, even when one is not thinking about any specific departed person, beautiful and moving and comforting.

We may disbelieve the whole soul thing. We may debate the dogmatic aspects of singing a piece of music which tradition aligns with a Catholic theology, and we’re definitely not Catholic. But we never doubt the beauty and power of music, and we’re grateful for the solemn dignity of the prose, the musical celebration of a life, and a reminder to sing while we can.


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It’s tough to go from rehearsing in a large university classroom to performing in an acoustically live abbey — very tough. The bass line you relied on hearing, as it cued your part (without needing to pay attention to all of that pesky counting) can be utterly ruined, if the basses are confused by hearing echoes of the altoes and come in too early. The orchestra’s string-laden entrances seem vague when compared to the definite percussion of a piano keyboard. Rehearsing was tough — a bit acrimonious in parts. There was a lot of glaring between sections, snarky commentary from our choir master, and general panic. We very much wished we could have rehearsed with the orchestra a week earlier, but the fact is, they bill by the hour, and so most choirs only do a dress rehearsal with them (except for the symphony choir, perhaps). The aforementioned non-counting basses got a bit lost once, there were timid beginnings, and a few sour notes (for some reason, holding the key in a couple of spots was troublesome, though it had never been previously) which caused an almost imperceptible wince on the part of the choir master during the performance, but it was a powerful sound, and though the audience was mostly stern-faced (never a smiley group, these), they seem to have enjoyed themselves, and were enthusiastic in their applause.

And we had fun. Never mind the paying customers.

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Not surprisingly, today we find ourselves a bit draggy. Standing still for five hours on a frigid cement floor — even in low heels or rubber-soled boots — is hard on the thighs and calves. Holding a score out in one’s hand — again, holding it mostly still — makes weird little twinges in one’s back and arms. Walking back to the train station provided opportunity to slither and slide on the salted cobblestones, which only added to the fun. Fortunately, all of Sunday’s plans are tied up in our monthly brunch out with C. — nothing other than maybe a bit of laundry followed by a long nap and a hot bath is planned for this bitterly cold Sunday.

Owing to the usual train kerfluffles, we arrived at rehearsal on the baton, which meant a silent wait until the director was distracted, and then a crazy scramble for our places instead of time to peruse the abbey and the Christmas lights in the town center. We plan to go back and take pictures when there is better light (and fewer spotlights on poles interfering with everything) and not the pressing need to escape the glares of the man with the “stick,” as he calls it. We have some bootleg recordings of the program, however! You can hear the Cherubini Requiem and the as well as an mp3 of the Fauré, recorded from behind the chorus. We are so loud in some parts we should have moved the recorders another twenty feet back – but still, we mainly wanted to give you an idea of what we sounded like.

Cranberry Cookies 1


When you rehearse once a week for two and a half hours with a group of people, you become accustomed to their presence, even if you never exchange a word. We like our choral group, and decided to make them cookies. Much to our amusement, some other members of the chorus came up with the same idea — all of them in the second sopranos, where T. currently sings. We had, between us, five dozen cranberry orange iced cookies, an entire gingerbread cake, and two dozen double chocolate brownies with marshmallows and nuts.

We quickly decided that we’d better share the wealth with the rest of the chorus, who voted that we do this baking thing every week. T, who feels like she spent a large percentage of her life in recent days either drizzling icing on something or cleaning it off of the counter, muttered, “Right. Not bloomin’ likely.”

So, no weekly cookie lovefest. More music, though; next concert is the 12th of December, followed by the “big show” on the 19th! (Yikes.)

Recess

Big Top Toys 2

This past summer while in D.C., T. became reacquainted with childhood. An early morning foray into the kitchen for the paper brought her to an abrupt halt, as in the middle of the kitchen floor our hostess and her sister were playing jacks. T. was dragooned into playing, only to discover that the adults in question have been playing jacks, non-stop, since childhood. T., whose mad social skills usually gave her plenty of time to sit alone and read at school during recess, actually had not much of an idea of how to play. She watched the game with the amused detatchment of those who are skill-free.

“Oh, it’s easy,” she was told. “Come play!”

Um, yeah. Right. She tried “onesies,” and never got any further. (Oh, the shame.)

So, fast forward seven months later. A rainy-day mosey past our favorite toy store (They have awesome mobiles on the ceiling, so we must ALWAYS go inside. They also have three dogs – two chocolate Labs and a Rhodesian Ridgeback puppy that is just HUGE. At ten months old, it stands as tall as an adult Labrador. Already. Goofy+Huge=Amusing, destructive, and a maker of huge amounts of poo — and fortunately not our problem.) this past weekend netted us a couple of small packets of jacks. They’re probably meant for very small hands, beginner’s jacks, so to speak, thus the jacks are minuscule, and the rules are quite brief. Strangely, the described game is nothing like the game T. played on the kitchen floor in Virginia.

(We were informed later that our hostess plays with “the rules of her folk.” READ: C.T. makes up the rules and then changes them so she can win. ::cough::)

Jacks, dear people, are hard. Ridiculously hard.

T. sputtering: “What? You can’t just throw the ball up?”

D., solemnly reading the rules: Nope. Says here you’ve got to bounce it down once. And you’re supposed to start with them all in your hand and flip your hand over to catch them on the back of your hand.

T., throwing up her hands: “What?! You have to do that at the beginning of every single play? That’s ridiculous.”

D., shrugging: “Well, that’s what it says.”

T., crossly: “I’ve never seen that. We never did that at C’s house. I think the ball is warped. That’s why I can’t do this. Besides, these are just British rules. That means we can just make up our own.”

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Somehow, we see now how this happens elsewhere. With other people. In Virginia. Who maybe, ::cough:: cheat…

The pre-game “catch on the back of your hands” sometimes morphs into a full-on contest. Jacks also spin very nicely, which is absorbing in and of itself. And, we throw the ball up, thank-you-very-much. It just doesn’t make sense to do otherwise.

We have two boxes of marbles, by the way. We just have to figure out somewhere to play inside where they won’t all end up under the futon…

Revisiting the culture of childhood, where if nobody likes the rules, it’s perfectly acceptable to the rules and go our own way.

Sounds like a decent life plan.

Weekends

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A little fog, a little sun. We’ve entered the late autumn cycle. Interspersed with bouts of wind and rain and bitter cold, we have clear blue afternoons that begin to fade by 3 p.m. into dusk, colors leaching from the sky and all of the buildings.

We are in a season of extremes — brilliant bright sun against the dramatic backdrop of a pewter-gray sky. This is a city of extremes – this is the time of year where we find ourselves chuckling at the clothes we wear — holding on to our right to wear cardigans instead of coats, and nice shoes instead of waterproofed boots. The funniest thing is to see girls at the University defiantly striding out in Daisy Duke-style cut-offs, legs bare to the elements except for a thin layer of fishnet or lacy stocking. They tremor when they walk, so caught up in shivering.

While there is darkness and wind, there’s also a feeling of impending celebration. Between the early November Diwali celebration to Fireworks Night and the upcoming Christmas revels, the streets these days are filled — cars, traffic, people on foot heading for the city center, and the “maul,” as D. calls it (borrowing from author Terry Pratchett). While we struggle through the days, trying to simply get up as the early dusk and late dawn seem to rob us of coherent wakefulness, we wonder how the people who live here all of their lives fare. Are the numerous lights downtown working for them? Do the sodium-yellow streetlights actually make them feel like things have color? We are so glad that this is our last winter, and a little alarmed that it’s not really even begun yet, and we’re already to the point of dread.

T's new Grandma Shoes

— Dread, but functional dread, fortunately. We are dragging ourselves out of bed and to the gym with grim determination. We are not going to become sick this year, or give in to the sapping urge to hibernate at eat our own baking until we fall over in a stupor. (Although that sounds really fun at this point…) We plan to make it through our last winter with our sanity intact!

Every little thing helps, in that quest for sanity. Though T. tends to become more of a Hobbit than usual when it is dark and cold, D. managed to drag her out of the house this weekend. Having read the fine print in our chorus manual, T. realized she would be prohibited from wearing boots for our concert on the 20th. Since the tops of the boots won’t be visible under her regulation black pants, she couldn’t see what the problem was, but since D. needed some new things for work anyway, she was talked into going downtown. T. continued her quest to own shoes that are “so ugly they’re cute,” and bought what D. could only describe as organ shoes. D. picked some thicker trousers for work, having come home soaked to skin on Friday and not really excited about repeating that freezing experience. Fortunately, the wind drove us home and the rain didn’t start until we were climbing the last hill to the house. Loathe as we were to leave the house, it was actually invigorating being out and fighting the elements. It’s just hard to get out there.

Again with the cupcakes...

While Glasgow’s not an expensive city, per se, it’s easy to spend too much if you indulge a whim for going out. We don’t often visit pubs or coffee shops anymore, having dispensed with coffee and the drams for which one visits the pub. We don’t even eat out much, simply because it’s often disappointing. There are hundreds of well-respected restaurants in Glasgow, but there aren’t a ton of vegetarian options that are included in a menu except as an afterthought, and honestly, there’s only so much eggplant or so many huge grilled Portabellos one can eat without figuring out that one could have stayed home. (Plus, when the real urge you have is for a burrito, well… the portabellos don’t really do it for you.) Occasionally, however, we go out — and this time visited the newish pub across the block from our house. We were excited, because The Drake had a fire in the little iron grate that was just being lit when we walked in.

View from Skypark 164

We should have taken pictures, because it was a coal and peat fire — not that either one is all that exciting, but a.) we Yanks don’t really know what it looks like, and b.) the coal was smokeless and looked like black dinosaur eggs. (And yes, we can say that because we all know exactly what dinosaur eggs look like.) Peat is, of course, processed, decayed moss and stuff that’s ages and ages old, and it’s dug out of bogs and wetlands with special shovels and then set aside to dry and be burned. There’s a lot of discussion on the ecological issues in burning peat, but people burn it because it burns hot for a long time. This peat, rather than being hand-dug and in plain blackened brick slabs, was in a nifty shape with initials pressed into it, the coal used was supposed to be smokeless (although the proprietor winked and said he had some of “the good stuff” in back), and the smoke didn’t particularly want to go up the chimney. All in all, it was a strange but good breakfast.

It’s now 20 minutes to 4 p.m. and the sun is going down. We’re wishing for a peat fire of our own.

-D & T

Serendipity Fruit

Man, we love cranberries. The first year we moved here, D. went into a fish market to buy a bottle of mae ploy (why they carry mae ploy sauce, we don’t know, but we’re happy) and saw, serendipitously, that they had bags of Ocean Spray cranberries. He impulsively bought them out figuring we’d use them, and we did. He wandered over and asked them when they’d have them in this year… and they ordered a few bags just for him. He bought all of them.

We love our cranberries.

Cranberry Orange Bread 1

We’re not sure why they don’t grow them here — you’d think if you could grow blueberries, you could grow cranberries — but other than the brandy-laced sauce we found in Tesco the one time, it doesn’t seem like cranberries ever caught on here. Maybe it’s because the British lack a Thanksgiving holiday — Christmas simply isn’t enough time to relish the puckery sour-bitter berry that’s so, so tasty. And we do prefer ours kind of sour. Ocean Spray makes a canned cranberry sauce which most Americans cherish, but we’ve been making our very own tart relish with orange peels and spices for as long as we’ve been together.

But sauce isn’t all you can do with cranberries — T. has been known to eat cranberries …raw. And we also like them baked in bread. Sometimes we bake them into a yeast-raised bread, and we’ve found several quick bread recipes pairing cranberries with dates or figs — which seems weird, but we might try it. For today, though, we fell back on our old standard of pairing cranberry with orange, and this year tried out a new recipe for cranberry-orange loaf. At D’s work, the office manager asked him very seriously if he planned to take orders on them for Christmas this year. The answer is still no — but D’s willing to share the recipe!

Cranberry-Orange Loaf

Makes 2 large loaves or 6 mini loaves or 18 muffins

  • 4 cups all-purpose unbleached flour
  • 2 cups sugar
  • 3 teaspoons baking powder
  • 2 teaspoons salt
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 1/2 cup orange juice
  • 4 tablespoons butter or margarine
  • 4 tablespoons grated orange zest
  • 2 eggs, beaten or 1/4 c. ground flax seed plus 2 Tbsp. water
  • 3 cups (One 12 ounce bag) fresh cranberries
  • Cranberry Orange Bread 3

  • 1 cup chopped walnuts or pecans, optional. We opted not.

Preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C. Simply sift together the dry ingredients in a medium-sized bowl, then stir in the wet ingredients (including the combined flax seed and water, which sat and hydrated for three minutes, if you’re using an egg substitute). When your rather golden-yellow bread batter has combined, stir in the cranberries last of all.

This is a very, very, very sweet bread, and if you use orange juice that is sweetened, you will be making a sweet thing cloying. We juiced six oranges for our cup and a half of juice — which you may not want to do, as it is somewhat tedious. If you use orange juice from concentrate, consider cutting it with lemon juice, or water.

We topped this bread with two tablespoons of raw sugar, to give it a crunchy top. This is a really moist bread, so be prepared for a long, slow baking time. Full-sized loaves need 50-55 minutes to bake, small loaves 30-35 minutes. A toothpick inserted into the center should come out clean when they are done.

We had a tiny slice of bread right out of the oven, of course, and D. wasn’t impressed. He fussed abut the crumb, decided there were too many cranberries per slice, and was generally grumpy. T. advised him to wait until it had cooled all the way, and settled… and boy, were we glad we did. The moisture balanced out, the crumb was light, and the flavor was delicious. At the office, the boss once again refrained from getting his scone. The office manager took four pieces, and a coworker moved the tray to her desk, so she could “watch” it. Much more of a cake than a bread, this is flat out delicious, habit-forming, and provokes kind of frighteningly possessive reactions in people.

Good thing we’ve got five more bags of cranberries…

Cranberry Orange Bread 2