Christmas Baking

Half-white Bread

Gluten Roast

Christmas Eve has been a day of cooking, all day long. To start with, I’m brining a turkey for our friends’ family (our friends are lifelong vegetarians, and I like a challenge). That will be baked in the morning, of course. The rest of the day, though, was consumed by baking bread, baking a kabocha-squash and then turning it into two pies (see Bryanna’s Vegan Pumpkin Pie for the basic recipe), and making a gluten roast in the slow-cooker (see Ellen’s Kitchen for that recipe). Truly: it’s been a long day, but at least there’ll be some goodies for the morning!

Pumpkin Pie

The pie, on tasting it, turned out a little too spiced and a little too sweet. Since we two are the only ones who really like pumpkin pie around here, nobody but us will complain. Next time, though, we’ll back off on the spices and cut out the molasses entirely. Peanut Butter Cookies We used coconut milk instead of the soy milk, which is an awesome substitution. It’s very subtle in the finished pie, but is definitely worth it. We used a kabocha squash, halved, baked cut side up.

It’s certainly a real treat, having access to a large kitchen. At one point, we had both ovens going, baking 6 pans of rolls and two loaves of bread. There was a little space left over, even at all that, so we could have baked the pumpkin at the same time. A truly huge kitchen, indeed!

Pass the Salt

Salty Chocolate 4

A gift is sometimes a Gateway drug.

See, we would never have even heard of Fran’s Chocolates, except our friend F. in Seattle decided that T. should have Michelle Obama’s favorite chocolates. We’ve missed a lot of the Cool Pop Culture things, being away, so we had no idea the woman had a favorite chocolate! But, Oprah knew, thus everyone knew. Anyway, T. held onto those chocolates until her manuscript was written and off to the races (w00t!), but on Thanksgiving, we broke them open, and —whoa. Fran’s Gray Salt Caramels in dark chocolate.

A gateway drug.

Salt and sweet pairings aren’t new, of course. American cuisine takes bits and pieces from all kinds of culinary traditions. Asian cuisine pairs dried fruit with salt — to make mouth-puckeringly salty/sour dried plums. I remember childhood friends sharing their licorice with me — a horribly salty-sweet Dutch treat which was, as much as anything else, an acquired taste. A Portland doughnut shop has bacon and maple donuts — savory and sweet. A slice of ice-cold watermelon with a squirt of lime and a sprinkle of salt is a traditional summer offering in many Southern states, and it’s the same in parts of Iran. Salted caramels got popular in the U.S. about ten years ago, but it’s been the going thing in France for a long time.

Salty Chocolate 1

Our friend P. is a steak-and-potatoes guy, and claims he’s a “simple person with simple tastes.” Now that he is an avid aficionado of the Food Network, even he’s heard of gray salt. “What’s the difference between that and regular salt?” he asked us the other night. “Couldn’t you just sprinkle a bit of this” — he waved to the table salt — “on your chocolate?”

Um, maybe. But, probably not.

Curiously, gray salt, or Sel Gris de Guérande is a regular old sea salt that is gotten the usual way — but it comes from Guérande, Brittany in France, with its specific soil and mineral content. Seawater on the Guérande coast is caught in settling ponds, and then sluiced onward to clay lined salt fields. The sun and the wind evaporate the water, and it is raked up from the salt pans. This is what gives it its distinctive gray shade.

Sea salt is flaky, which gives it more surface area on the tongue, which is why people use it as a finishing salt. You’re meant to taste it, it’s meant to be more than just a part of the homogenized flavoring of a dish. When contrasted with chocolate, it really makes its presence felt.

Salted desserts are sort of the “right now” fad — the New York Times reported on the phenomenon about a year ago, remarking how what was once the provenance of chefs has turned into something you can get at Starbucks — and indeed, there’s a salted caramel chocolate drink you can get.

T. thought the dark chocolate was amazing, though she felt the salt had a citrussy taste, which confused her. D., who isn’t that fond of chocolate in general, was even impressed, although not that fond of the caramel. Both are plotting ways in which the recipe can be revised and improved — T. is getting ready to experiment with a coconut milk caramel, and D. wants to know how to smoke salt.

Gateway drug, people. It’s an addiction.

Salty Chocolate 3

A Strange Twist of Taste

Despite the fact that T’s the one who was raised vegetarian and intermittently vegan, she’s the Hobbit who is grumpiest, snarliest, and pickiest about food. It may just be that she is simply grumpy, snarly and picky about everything (“What? Never,” you gasp. Yeah, nice try.) — but from places to people to foods, anything new gets a sidelong look, and a long, cool appraisal before she decides it might have some worth.

Quinoa, the alleged mother-grain of the Incas was not a big winner with her at all. The first time she had it, it was undercooked, crunchy, and weird tasting. Never mind that it appeared visually inoffensive, never mind that it never actually did anything more than taste slightly off — and that could have been just in how it was cooked. There was the potential that it might, taste questionable more than once, and that was enough to prevent her from trying again.

Quinoa, Food of the Incas

Though she would dutifully cook it for D., something about all those weird little… tail thingies around the individual grains, once it was cooked, kind of squicked her out. Knowing this wasn’t exactly…er, logical, she kept it to herself, and just put enough on her plate at any potluck gathering (and stirred it around and left it) so as not to offend.

Our twelve-year-old (practically) chiropractor, in the guise of an actual adult healthcare practitioner occasionally asks us about our diet, and remarked blandly at our six month workup that we ate more cereal grains than we should. Of course, being vegetarians, we weren’t as amenable to his suggestion to cut down on grain and supplement with fish and chicken as we might have been, but as the wet-weather-sedentary pounds began to pile on, T. began to rethink her abrupt dismissal of the quinoa. It’s the only grain that’s a complete protein. It contains all the essential amino acids. And it’s — at least in theory — like …rice, except without the negatives of empty carbs and starches. She bought a bag (it’s actually UK grown in Essex, no less), and put it in the cupboard.

Where it sat.

In an adventurous burst of creative cooking, D. rescued it from exile. Now, we’ve never yet gotten used to the lack of continuity in the nutritional information on packaging here. What we took for granted in the U.S. — the stock label indicating serving sizes — doesn’t commonly exist, except on certain store brands. In this case, cooking directions were also spotty, as it called for something like four liters of water per hundred grams of grain. Not in the mood to figure out conversions, D. asked T. how she would cook it. She thought it should at least have the same water-to-grain ratio as rice. D. agreed, mostly. He put in a little extra water, just in case.

The pilaf-like consistency of the quinoa which we expected didn’t appear. Instead, it was rather… er… porridge-y. Possibly soupy. D. looked at it with dismay, but served it up with a dollop of butter and the side of Thai-esque curried tofu and veg, explaining that it wasn’t one of his finest efforts.

Quinoa Meets Asia 1

“Do you want to doctor it with something?” D. asked, wincing as T. took a bite.

“Mmm?” she mumbled, turning a page in the book that she was reading. “What?”

“Um…nothing,” he said, and stared as the grumpy, picky, snarly person cleared her plate.

Something about adding a bit more water and cooking the quinoa to the consistency of congee, the Asian rice porridge, was a serious hit. T. is a finally — at long last — a fan of quinoa, and can see why the child chiropractor eats it for breakfast. (Of course, he also eats his with the traditional Scottish grilled tomatoes and lean bacon instead of potatoes and black pudding, but T’s not prepared to go there just yet).

Vegetable Stew for a Chilly Day

Woodlands Road 52

It’s chilly, here in Glasgow. Autumn has truly hit, to the point where even the wee trees know The End Is Nigh, and are turning colors. Most of the leaves don’t even make it to red, but just fall off, yellow, to be scooped up by the whistling street-sweeper, at some unheard of hour of the morning.

Life’s busy – we’re both working hard on getting our tasks finished before the arbitrary deadlines imposed by … all manner of people. Some day we’ll emerge from our cocoon, here, but for now, it’s all about food which is easy to make. Thus, Vegetable Stew.

Vegetable Stew

  • 1 red onion, diced
  • 1 white onion, diced
  • 2 shallots, diced
  • 8 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 Tbsp vegetable boullion
  • 1 tsp extra hot chile flakes
  • 1 large jalapeño, minced
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 20 gratings of nutmeg with your microplane grater
  • 1 cup vegetarian mince
  • 1 cup frozen sweet-corn
  • 1 cup frozen soybeans
  • 2 cups potatoes, matchsticked
  • 12-oz crushed tomatoes
  • Water (as needed)
  1. Sweat onions, shallots, garlic, bay leaf, and vegetarian mince until onions are tender (and the mince has absorbed some of the onion flavor).
  2. Remove the bay leaf, and add everything else.
  3. Cover everything with water – not too much, but enough to let it really go for awhile.
  4. Let cook until the potatoes are just done.
  5. Serve (with an optional dollop of cottage cheese).

O, Great Pumpkins

Thai Noodles

“Eat food.
Not too much.
Mostly plants.”
~ Michael Pollan

We had BIG PLANS to participate in the Vegan Month of Food challenge. We planned on making coconut milk caramel to go with our harvest apples. We were going to experiment with making black-eyed pea fritters, marshmallows from a new recipe we’d found that uses xantham gum, and a tribute remake of a lovely Clementine Pie we saw this summer. We had all manner of nifty things we were going to bake and cook and post about.

Instead, on the very first day of the month, I got sick with the Days of Incandescence; five horrible days of fever over 101°F/39°C and aching joints, and spent two miserable weeks with a cough and aches and weakness that wouldn’t go away. I believe I was visited by the dreaded Bacon Lung, close cousin to the Swine ‘Flu. Seeing as I’m a vegetarian, it plagued me only briefly, then had to go away…

In all seriousness, though, I was bummed to be getting sick so early in the season — and so seriously sick. I had to sleep with ice packs at one point, because doses of echinacea, olive leaf extract, Sambuccol/black elderberry extract, Tylenol/Paracetemol and other non-aspirin fever reducers weren’t working. (And, as you can see, we tried everything.) Every time I get sick, I wonder if it’s something I’m doing wrong. Am I eating too much sugar? Am I not drinking enough? Is it because I don’t do yoga? Should I not color my hair? So, instead of it being a month of fun food, it’s been a month of obsessing. And driving D. crazy.

Luckily for you, though, I’m almost done.

Pumpkin 1


D. brought home a pumpkin the other week, much to my glee. Like most New World foods, pumpkins are sold here, but we usually see the wee-tiny decorative gourds or big massive things that are meant to be cut up for jack-o-lanterns. Though it’s really more a matter of seed variety, I suspect that the big pumpkins don’t expend all their energy on flavor, so it was nice that our grocer down the way had small ones.

We halved the pumpkin and baked it face down on the tray. D. scraped the cooked flesh from the rind, and we had enough to freeze, and enough to make two loaves of pumpkin bread. Using your own pumpkin purée is not the same as using canned pumpkin; the canned is a.) often not solely pumpkin and b.) packed in and of consistent water content. This first pumpkin was drier than expected, so the batter turned out a little thicker than usual (this is what I get for “winging it”), making for a slightly heavier loaf. However, I only used half the purée for this first batch, and will do a little adjusting of liquids for the second batch, which should be prettier.

Great Pumpkin Bread

  • 3 tbs freshly ground flaxseed *you can buy it pre-ground, but it goes rancid quickly. We just keep seeds on hand and use the coffee grinder.
  • 1/2 cup boiling water
  • 3/4 cups sugar
  • 1/4 cup agave nectar *or sub maple syrup or honey; 2 sugars keep it moist
  • 1/2 cup applesauce
  • 1/3 cup canola oil
  • 2 cups fresh pumpkin puree
  • 3 cups whole wheat flour
  • 1 tsp each of the “usual” freshly ground spices: cinnamon, nutmeg and powdered ginger
  • 1 tsp baking soda
  • 1/2 tsp baking powder
  • 3/4 tsp salt
  • 1 cup chopped candied ginger

Preheat the oven to approx 350°F/177C°.
In a big bowl, stir to combine the flaxseed and water. Let it sit for two minutes, until it thickens. Add your sugars, applesauce, oil, and pumpkin.
In a separate bowl, stir together the flour, spices, baking soda, baking powder, and salt.

Pumpkin Bread

A little at a time, stir the dry ingredients into the wet, at the last, fold in the chunks of candied ginger. Divide your batter into two regular lightly oiled loaf pans — or you can use four tiny loaf pans, and make gift-sized loaves. Sometimes we sprinkle a bit of raw sugar on the top just before baking, but post-sick, I’m sticking with a bit of wheat germ. (Yeah, that’ll pass.) Bake for 55 minutes until golden-brown. Allow the bread to cool in the pans for about fifteen minutes before attempting to remove it, as it will be quite moist and apt to break if you try earlier.

Crunching the knäckebröd

Knackerbrod 1 Knackerbrod 2 Knackerbrod 3

The one thing we like about That Swedish Furniture Store Which Shall Remain Nameless is its little food aisle. While others are throwing elbows, trying to get to the meatballs and the Lingonberry jams, we’ve been smugly making off with a few pounds of nutty, mild Swedish cheese, and wheels and wheels of knäckebröd. Ever since Swedish blogger Anne of Anne’s Food blogged about visiting the Wasa factory in… Sweden somewhere, we’ve been wanting to visit one ourselves. Since we can’t get to Sweden this week, we’ll just blog about the joys of knäckebröd.

Growing up in a vegetarian household that was big on fiber, we both grew up eating crisp rye crackers, and both of us are Ryvita addicts, but the big traditionally produced platters and wheels of crispbread are something even better. Made of rye, and baked into thin sheets, this bread was meant to have a long life, and can be used and stored for a long time. A vehicle for both sweet and savory toppings, we enjoy ours piled with thinly sliced apples, a tart or nutty cheese, and smoked tofu. You can use a cream-cheese based spread studded with sundried tomatoes or olives to start you off, and add some kind of fish, luncheon meats or thinly sliced sausage. For a change, we sometimes top our knäckebröd with a dollop of yogurt and chopped cucumber and herbs, or a bit of jam and a soft fruit like peaches or nectarines.

Knackerbrod 4

They’re crisp and light and while most of the time they don’t crumple in your hands, they’re not really the ideal food to eat when you’re reading… one-handed… which is generally how we eat them anyway. They’re the perfect picnic food, or, if you’re having a rain-picnic indoors like we usually do, they work great in front of the fireplace, too.

We’ve not tried to make our own knäckebröd, but here’s a recipe from Johanna K’s blog, and a cool Flickr tutorial we found should you ever want to try it. At present, we’re happy getting it from That Food Store, and leave this light, crisp bread as the only item we ever buy there.

Fondant, Finally

Lemon Cake 01

If you’ve been following the fondant follies you’ll know that I’m pretty determined to get this fondant thing to work. This last batch was quite different from the first attempt: it didn’t solidify into a solid rock, but merely to about the consistency of modeling clay. I think that this is what’s supposed to happen, but I don’t really suppose it matters much: I got the stuff to dissolve with a minimum of headache, and without any lumps! That’s good enough for Round III!

Lemon Cake 05

The pour also went well, and at a low enough temperature not to melt the buttercream icing used for the crumb coat. There is a bit of sagging, where you can see ripples in the icing, along the sides. I think that this is because it really wasn’t quite stiff enough. I probably used too much simple syrup to dilute, is my guess. I’ll be extra careful next time.

Danielle asked, Why bother? Why go to all this trouble, when she can get something much the same which is microwaveable? Well … because sometimes making a whole dessert from scratch, from start to finish, is worth the bother. Sure, this is a bit much work for an everyday type of thing, but just to prove to ourselves that we CAN, we wanted to try. After all, the guys on Ace of Cakes can do it! For that level of mastery with fondant, mere mortals have to start somewhere. While we don’t have delusions of being Duff, we challenged ourselves to make something we’d never made, and had fun along the way.

Lemon Cake 12

From what I’ve read, there are 3 types of fondant: boiled fondant (a.k.a. European Fondant), which is what we’ve been making these last few times; “quick” fondant, which is just powdered sugar, heated up with a wee bit of water; and then there’s Gum Paste or Sugarpaste. I don’t know what’s in off-the-shelf products, because I haven’t found any, but the recipes out there for the rollable fondants / sugarpastes contain gelatin (which is, you know, boiled animal skin and bones, which is fine, unless you’re a vegetarian). That’s also why we’ve avoided the marshmallow fondants: marshmallows also contain gelatin. True, we might be able to substitute agar-agar, or xantham gum, or some such thing … but that’s a lot of “maybe” and “if” experimentation, so that’s for another attempt for another day.

Lemon Cake 10

In this case, we’ve made a boiled fondant, poured over a lemon cake which has been drenched in lemon simple-syrup. Because we were visiting friends with a three-year-old son, T. made some fish out of marzipan, painted them with food coloring (and saffron extract – beet juice would have worked better for the red, but we were, sadly, out. Don’t know any natural dyes for a vibrant green — Suggestions, anyone?). These were stuck to the sides using a bit of leftover fondant, and just pressed onto the top. Our little friend was tickled, his mother immediately tried to book us for his birthday party (Noooooo!) and all the adults loved the cake, and felt that the almond flavor went well with the lemon. A big win! Just how big? Well, let’s say that when it was time for us to go home, and there was still 1/4 of the cake left, they immediately went looking for a plate – there was no chance we were taking it home with us.

Boiled Fondant: the Rematch

Boiled Fondant 10

OK, folks: I’m doing it again. I’m making Boiled Fondant, to pour over a lemon cake. This time, though, we have a new immersion blender: a £65 Cuisinart. It worked wonderfully. It only smoked a little bit, when I was all done. Will it burn out by the time I’m done making the lemon cake? Probably. Is it under warranty? Oh, you betcha.

New Immersion Blender

Why is it that all appliances don’t have a cutoff switch in them, so that when you USE them too much, they just stop? I mean, how hard would that be? We thought that the Cuisinart would have one, since our Kitchenaid stand mixer did. When it got too hot, it would just quit. The immersion blender? No such luck: it just kept on going, and only because I saw little whisps of smoke coming out of it, did I turn it off. We’ll see if it survives the weekend. If not … well, at least I’ll have gotten 1 good cake out of it (hopefully).

The Kitchenaid stand mixer is (as far as we know) still going happily, with friends, in the US. Perhaps we ought to have brought it with us after all….

Poolish?

Whole Wheat Poolish Bread 1

So, I’d heard of it before, and had no idea what it was all about. Well …. now I know! A Poolish is … well, basically, kinda sorta like a sourdough starter, in that it boosts the gluten content of your bread, and gives things a head start towards becoming yummy, moist, open-crumb bread.

I followed this recipe, essentially, although I doubled the recipe, cut down on the salt a bit, added some flax-seeds and some wheat germ, and ended up adding more flour than this recipe calls for. I made 2 loaves of plain bread and 2 of cinnamon-raisin. The bread … turned out to be stunningly chewy, marvelous toasted, and enough to tell me that we’ll be doing Poolish again and again!