Leftovers – Congealed Thoughts from the Back of the Fridge

I have an uneasy relationship with mayonnaise.

It really began when I was five. Having seen a commercial for Pledge, that lemon-and-insecticide scented, ozone-imploding furniture polish, wherein some mindless girlchild haplessly flopped an open-faced peanut-butter and mayonnaise sandwich onto her mother’s fine walnut coffee table (“Uh, oh, Mommy!” *beatific smile*). Being five, and apparently ridiculously impressionable, I completely lost the plot, and decided I needed a peanut-butter and mayonnaise sandwich, stat.

“You have to eat it all,” my mother warned me. “We’re not wasting food on a whim, here.”

“I’ll eat it,” I said, and indeed, I took a hefty bite when she gave it to me. My arteries curled up and whimpered. “See? It’s good,” I assured her, and forced it down.

Being not only ridiculously impressionable, but determinedly basalt-headed, I actually asked her for another one. I don’t know how I kept it down.

The Thanksgiving I was nine, my parents’ friends, Cheryl and Bob, invited us to a mini-feast the day before the big day. Cheryl was from BAHSton, and my California-grown ears thought her wide open vowels and nasal consonants were the epitome of class and elegance. I compared her tall-twig runway-polished looks rather unfavorably to my own mother’s familiar, comfortable unmade-up appearance, until Cheryl slid a cut-crystal bowl in front of me.

“It’s ambrosia salad,” she told us all proudly, fluttering her fake lashes. “My family has this every year.”

My toes curled, and inside I made hasty apologies to dear old Mom. At least she knew better than to make anything that looked like this!

I know now that ambrosia salad is a Southern thing, and was meant to be a treat for my parents, who were born in the Southern part of the U.S. The salad is meant to be a light, bright palate cleanser. It’s made up of pineapple, coconut, navel oranges, a banana and sometimes maraschino cherries. Dear, classy Cheryl felt it necessary to go one step beyond this, and add tiny pastel marshmallows, mayonnaise and Cool Whip to create an undignified, unpalatable mess.

I remember feeling my face go hot, and staring at the dainty silver spoon next to my bowl. I remember stirring the creamy glop around with it, pretending to eat. I remember my father glaring at me the length of the table. I lifted the spoon and parted reluctant lips, knowing I was in for a hiding later on if I did not. I didn’t even bother to chew.

When my bowl was empty, I left the table. I was probably coming down with the ‘flu already — and once I ate that ambrosia salad, and was halfway to the toilet, I parted company with my entire meal. My father was furious, and harangued all the way home, but I think Mom was relieved we left so soon. I was put to bed shaking and hallucinating mice running around my room. It was just the ‘flu, but for me, that salad — that sickness — was inextricably linked with mayonnaise. It was one more strike against the evil oil-and-egg suspension.

UGH. Mayonnaise. It shrivels my soul to this day.*

In college, I lived in the Napa Valley, land of Michael Chiarello. Living in the Foodie’s Paradise, we all had to eat aioli, the quintessential must-have fresh garlicky salad dressing that bears a queasy-making relation to mayo. I sought refuge in vinaigrettes and did just fine, as the Valley has amazing olive oils and vinegars. We made our own mayo and aioli, and I admit anything we made at home tasted far better than store bought, but the eggs still gave me trouble, until I discovered that we could always use silken tofu as a base. That changed everything, and I became a creamy dressing aficionado.

Fast forward quite a few years to shopping in the UK… We’ve found that there are many dressings and vinaigrettes on the market, for when we’re too lazy to make our own, but along the way, as usual, we’ve discovered some things we’ve never heard of… Pray tell, if any of you know: What is salad cream? Dear friends, I have a horrible suspicion that it has something to do with ambrosia salad…


We have ONE clock in our house, a faux-Rococo 1950’s rose and gilt monstrosity complete with roman numerals that I picked up from the trash years ago. It’s so tacky it’s kind of neat, and once I refreshed the gold paint and livened up the color on the roses, I really liked it. It adds its own touch of quirky whimsy to whatever room it graces. It’s a great little clock — but it’s only ONE clock, and even in a flat of this size, it’s kind of a pain. The stove has no clock, nor does the microwave, so when we unpacked our painted porcelain mantle clock and found that the battery had given out during its voyage, we immediately started poking around in local shops, searching for a replacement.

There is a little shop on the way home from the University called The ClanStore. (And every time I see it, I think of hoods made of sheets. I assume it’s named for something to do with kilts…) It’s a crowded little shop filled with odds and ends from all over, and the proprietor promises that if he doesn’t have the Dr. Who memorabilia, mop, broom, plastic coffee mug, toy, t-shirt or electric fan that you’re looking for, he can get it. It’s an adventure of sorts to go into the shop, because the whole thing is the size of our front hall, and is crammed ceiling high with shelves of odds and ends, and only the proprietor knows where the bodies are buried. Patrons enter one at a time, and it’s not unusual to see a few standing on the sidewalk, waiting their turn. The owner is a busy man, and it makes him feel a bit self-important. He’s expansively promised Mac whatever he’s asked for, and hasn’t come up with most of it yet, including the battery. We’ve been looking for a replacement battery now for months.

We have, of course, looked elsewhere. Supermarkets carry the most routinely used battery sizes, as do many other stores, but the one we needed is an odd size, and we couldn’t seem to track it down. We were afraid that we would have to have friends send one from the U.S. “This is ridiculous,” I thought to myself. “Batteries are batteries. They’ve got to be around somewhere.” And so, I did my usual vague and random Google search… and with a little digging, found them.

Apparently the batteries for our mantle clock are the same size of the batteries that power most Japanese-manufactured…”marital aides” (to use the very Victorian term). There may be no other use for them in our neck of the woods, therefore it may be that only very specific shops carry them, shops into which it never occurred to us to look…

Monday we await the delivery — in discreet brown paper packaging, of course — of one nickel-metal hydride Size N battery… Sounds sexy, doesn’t it?


All right. No more playing around. Semester starts tomorrow. *Sigh* To all of you plugging away at those first few days of resolutions and regulations, courage. Only twenty-four days left ’til you can give it all up as a bad idea.

*(If it helps any of you purists out there, I don’t like catsup/ketchup or any variation of same either.)

It’s about YEAST!

OK, I’ve been absent a bit from the blog, what with all of the holidays & with essays to write & all manner of things. Don’t let that fool you into thinking that I haven’t been baking, though! As a matter of fact, I finally figured out what’s been going wrong with baking bread in the UK: YEAST! Yes, ladies and gentlemen, it’s not about the flour or the water, but about the yeast. I finally finished off my Scotland-purchased yeast and broke into my stash of yeast shipped from California … and my bread turned out right!

I could tell, from smelling the yeast proofing, that it was going to be a good set of loaves. They were just plain old bread (well, OK, they had oat bran & flax seeds in them, but that’s “plain” for us), but they turned out marvelously! They went through multiple rises just fine, with the yeast having enough guts to actually go through a second rise, and they turned out bread that we oooh’d and aaaah’d over, immediately recognizing as “bread” rather than … well, something so not bread as to be something we’ll never do again. They kneaded well, they formed gluten fairly quickly, and they were … well, right.

Hear this, friends from the States: admission to this flat will henceforth be 1 industrial-sized ‘brick’ of Red Star Yeast. We don’t care if the customs people look at you like you’re crazy: tell them you’ve crazy friends on the other side.

Because it’s not about the flour or the water, but about having good yeast!

All is Quiet on New Year’s Day…

Psst. Are you awake?

Glasgow is not open for business. Unlike New Year’s Day in California, today is a bank holiday in Scotland, a stay – in – and – shut – the – blinds day of quiet. At 9:30 we counted four cars on the bridge getting onto the freeway. Four. And here we thought this was a city that never slept.

Since our revels ended earlier (we felt overdosed on indulgence a bit sooner than others this year), we’re in an inventive frame of mind. A brick of Blue Dragon tofu whipped in a small food processor in the process of making a healthy soup sparked the idea for a lower fat version of pots de creme… (More dessert ideas already!? DANGER, DANGER thighs and gut!) But while we’re still on the straight and narrow — it’s ONLY the first day of the year, after all, a bit soon to throw the penitent eating schedule out of the window just yet (we’ll wait ’til February!), we’ll subdue our urges with this tasty Asian “Chicken” Salad. There’s nothing like a vinaigrette of ginger and chilies to wake up the taste buds, and combined with sobe noddles, shredded red cabbage and carrots, this is a tasty and very filling meal, and it only has a few calories. A few chopped peanuts give it a more Thai character, and add more protein.

We *would have* added bean sprouts, but we can only get them from the Farm, which has them infrequently. Area supermarkets only have canned bean sprouts. Those of you in California, you may now get up from the floor. I know — it’s horrifying, but we will survive. After all, bean sprouts are only sprouted… beans. A jar, a wet paper towel and some mung beans, and we’ll be fine.

But still: CANNED bean sprouts. In salted water no less. Wonder what they’re used for?

West Coast bloggers are taking advantage of post-holiday sales and stocking up on the goodies of the season: squashes and sweet potatoes and cranberries. We, sadly, aren’t able to do that; imported items are available for a limited time, then disappear. So, though we squirreled away a pound of cranberries in November, they’re all gone now, with the last of our sauce eaten. Boo!

There is hope — dried cranberries abound in the market, and we’ve found that a tasty sauce is still available using those. The recipe below does not include sugar, since if you use dried fruit may not need to add more, as very few stores carry unsweetened dried cranberries. Some people add from a quarter cup to a full cup of light brown sugar, but you’ll have to fiddle with this to your own taste; we prefer a more citrus, puckery-sweet cranberry sauce, and usually add no additional sweetening at all.

This recipe is based on one from Gourmet magazine, and has been fiddled with, by using ideas from another recipe in Epicurean, as well as our own ideas — we’re sure you’ll fiddle with it yourselves, too. It reportedly goes well on chicken or Quorn fillets; friends report that it’s tasty on pork or quail as well.

Dried Cranberry Orange Relish

1 tablespoon cornstarch (or corn flour, for those in the UK)

1/2 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup cranberry juice (try to get pure cranberry juice, or at least a juice sweetened cranberry juice blend)

1/2 cup fresh squeezed orange juice

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

1 1/2 cup dried cranberries

A pinch of salt

Optional: a cinnamon stick, to be discarded before serving

Optional: 1 orange, rind chopped finely, and roughly chopped, de-seeded sections

Optional: 1/8 teaspoon dried tarragon, crumbled

Optional: 2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley leaves, plus sprigs for garnish

In a small saucepan whisk together the juices and the cornstarch and add the wine and the rind, whisking until the mixture is smooth. Add the vinegar, the cranberries, the orange sections, the cinnamon and salt to taste and simmer the sauce, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes. The sweetened sauce can be served cool, and will gel slightly.

Note: For a more savory sauce, replace the orange juice with stock, and stir in the tarragon about ten minutes in to the simmering process. Add the minced parsley and simmer the sauce for 1 minute more before removing from heat. Serve the sauce warm, garnished with the parsley sprigs.

The addition of ginger to this sauce will also wake up your tastebuds and maybe settle your stomach as well! Happy culinary adventures this year! Best of all flavors, textures and tastes to you, fellow gardeners, knitters, cooks, Daring Bakers and food bloggers!

Hogmanay Hootenanay

You know, we’ve met some really lovely Scots.

People with whom we’ve actually become friends have been very kind to us in general, and last night was no exception. A classmate of D’s and his wife, B., came to take us to dinner. We had a great time — B. is a midwife, so that was completely intriguing to T., who, up until she discovered she neither liked blood, sweat nor tears thought being a midwife would be kind of cool — and the husband is a soft-spoken and earnest philosophy student and it was obvious that he and his wife think each other are really fun – not in a googly-eyed, lovey-dovey way, but each thinks the other is intelligent and worth listening to. It’s always really fun to hang out with married people like that.

Anyway, during the course of chatting, a couple of times they asked us what our plans were for the New Year. The first time we shrugged, a little leery of answering since quite a few people become alarmed at any hint that we may just be staying home. The second time they asked, we said, “Oh, well, there are fireworks in St. George Square…”

“NO!” they said in unison. “Don’t go there!” B. added worriedly. “Everyone’s drunk, it’s cold, it’s dark, it rains, and there are fights.” T. laughed that she hadn’t thought of that last one. “You should. Glasgow is the knifing capitol of the world,” B. explained seriously. “They fly doctors here from all over the world to learn how to to stitch up wounds.” She elaborated(!!!!), but we won’t go into detail. Suffice it to say that we’re just as pleased to be staying home tonight to catch what fireworks we can in the heavy fog and rain. According to the BBC, in Glasgow alone there will be fifty thousand in the streets, and fifteen thousand tickets have been sold to the St. George Square bash alone. Wow. Since ‘our Rabbie Burns’ wrote Auld Lang Syne in this very country, we expect to hear it until 2 A.M., sung at full volume, heaven help us. Ah, Glasgow, land of the singing drunk guys on the sidewalk beneath our building… though you’re not letting us sleep this week, we still (sorta) love you.


People have asked us repeatedly if we’re picking up the Scots burr. In a word, no. It’s like picking up a German accent if you don’t speak German. The burr comes from the guttural Gaelic words, some of which have no translation in English, which are still part of the Scottish vocabulary. So, the accent is just not something we’re going to suddenly discover we have one day. What’s weird, though? Is hearing the people who do have that burr… who grew up here, but who don’t look like it.

An Asian grocer opening his mouth to say, “Aye, and that’ll be four and six,” or a dark-skinned African child on his way home, poking his mates in their shoulders and screeching something about “footy” — is disconcerting. We’re used to hearing British Commonwealth accents from South Asian/Indian peoples, so that’s not quite as surprising, but hearing a Chinese or Thai person who sounds Scottish just makes us blink. Last night, B.’s accent gave us pause. She was born… in Seville, but spending her teen years here have given her the slightest Scottish sound.

We tend to think the United States is a melting pot, but in this city there seem to be bunches of small countries, ethnic neighborhoods, and all four kingdoms melting, remelting, and creating new tribes. It’s an interesting thing to see.


We have so, so, so very much for which to be thankful. During this break, a big thing has been books — books T’s been privileged to read and review that have entertained us and given us somewhere else to be when it was a little too lonely to be here, away from home. Friends from all over who arrived providentially with a bit of advice, a laugh, a suggestion of a health food store, a yarn shop, a hardware store, and a Mexican restaurant (with actual pinto beans). How funny that it all comes to mind at the closing of the year. We’ve survived, and so many hands have reached out to steady us on our way, and encourage us when we faltered. Friends, we’re truly grateful.

– D & T

Post-Holiday Adjustments


From “Hogmanay Traditions”:

The traditional New Year ceremony of yesteryear would involve people dressing up in the hides of cattle and running around the village being hit by sticks. The festivities would also include the lighting of bonfires, rolling blazing tar barrels down the hill and tossing torches. Animal hide was also wrapped around sticks and ignited which produced a smoke that was believed to be very effective to ward off evil spirits. The smoking stick was also known as a Hogmanay.

The New Year is full of traditions and resolutions everywhere, and Scotland is no exception of course. We’re learning about Hogmanay, which has its own strange rituals, including hoping for a tall, dark-haired male to be the first through one’s door for the new year (Yes, L., we’ll get his email should he come – apparently women, blonds, and redheads are bad luck. Huh.), bringing the traditional gifts of coal, shortbread, salt, a black bun and whiskey. In Dundee, there was in the past a tradition that called for carrying a decorated herring about… for reasons yet undiscovered (How was it decorated? How was it carried? We’ll certainly let you know if we find out). For us, the New Year is usually about chucking out possessions and tidying up. And just about every year just before New Year’s eve, we rearrange the furniture.


We were amused to find out that housecleaning for the New Year is a Hogmanay tradition as well. It’s part of “redding,” and though we have no fireplace to sweep out, we do have quite a bit of furniture to lug around.

It might seem a bit obsessive-compulsive to rearrange the furniture the same time every year no matter where we are, but it’s one of those little tricks that help to pull us through the longest bits of winter. This is the time of year when we usually paint something, put up new drapes, or do something to change up the grim gray view. We rearrange the cupboards, the furniture, the bookshelves and get new linens. We usually give a lot of things away — although since we did a whole bunch of that before we moved here, we’ll just be making weighty book donations to a couple of libraries and hoping that gives us a little more room — and a little less to pack when Spring comes and we move — wherever we end up.


St. George’s Square has been the scene of a massive Winterfest celebration since November. They’ve had a busy winter market selling gifts from all over, and will celebrate Hogmanay with ten thousand people all singing Auld Lang Syne, and a massive fireworks show. That’s probably one of the funniest — and best — things about Glasgow: these people love a party, and will let off fireworks at the drop of a hat. And it’s not as if they’re even remotely illegal except to pre-teens. EVERYONE has them, and with the constant drizzle, there’s certainly very little fire danger (just the usual “you’ll-blow-yourself-up” kind of danger).


When all is said and done, though, the most common New Year’s ritual in which we take part is the very American tradition of regretting the excesses of the past month. Yes, we have begun to start trying to claw our way out of the additional pounds packed on since November. No matter how onerous it seems, getting off the crack — er, sugar — is a good idea. We’re welcoming Asian cuisine back into our lives in the form of tofu and veggies, and feeling sharper and less sleepy as we take a full break from the simple carbohydrates. A few days of raw foods (slightly warmed — it’s just too cold to do a raw food diet here for very long. These temps need soup, thank-you.), and hopefully we’ll be well on our way to being ready to get back to work!

Apparently it’s also bad luck to wish you a happy anything before the date, so we’ll just close by saying “Avoid being hit by smoking sticks.”

Cheers!

– D & T

Works In Progress



Looking back over the past four months shows us a world of change. We managed to move from California to Scotland, and have had all manner of upheaval simply due to that. T’s work reviewing young adult and children’s books (the books pictured are for the Science-Fiction / Fantasy category of the Cybils Award) combined with her writing combined with my schoolwork and telecommuting project for a company back in California — well, we’ve been kept fairly busy.



In what spare time she has (and when she remembers that she has something other than loom knitting to work on), T’s been working on this ribbon scarf. Since it’s for her own use it’s been languishing in its project bag (thank you once again for the bags, Jackie). It will probably be finished up when we’ve had some vacation time to work on it, as it’s really a great travel project or church project, since it’s on circular needles & isn’t very large. The ribbon yarn doesn’t hold out much hope of warmth, though, which is another reason why this project is just a work in progress rather than a finished piece. Nothing says “Spring” like narrow, colorful ribbon.



More of the “in progress” category of our lives comes from the rearrangement of the furniture here in our flat. It’s such an odd space, this one multi-purpose living room / dining room / kitchen / office … but we think that we’ve finally gotten a handle on how it should be arranged, so as to get the use out of most of the space. (There’s still a great gaping emptiness in the kitchen area, but there’s probably nothing we can do about that. We could turn the dining room table in the other direction again … but we’ll wait on that for a bit, to see how this works out.) It’s just a matter of finally settling in, really, and having the time to do things like rearrange the furniture.

Not that we really have the time … but not having to slog to the University every day has given me an uninterrupted period of time to actually look at things here, and to consider where they should be. We’re still not completely unpacked – our mirrors & pictures are still in their box, wrapped and well padded – but we’ve decided that we’re not going to unpack all the way, here in this flat, because we’re going to leave the city within the next four or five months, no matter what happens. Whether or not I end up staying at Glasgow Uni, we’ll want to move: further out towards the west coast if we stay. While I will still be able to cycle in if I want to, we can spend half as much on rent, or can spend the same amount & have some space to garden, and maybe have some connection to our neighbors. Life here in this flat is just a bit isolated, and disconnected, ‘though the neighbors we have met are nice enough. Wherever we end up for my PhD will mean staying in place for several years, and wherever we live needs to be right.



As far as knitting projects are going for me, the piece I take with me to all classes & meetings & church is this same, poor, bamboo yarn scarf. I started it on the train from California to New York, way back in August, and have been knitting a few inches on it as I can. Most of the time that amounts to only a few hours per week, and some of that time I actually have to stop to concentrate on what’s being said, so it’s not gotten very far at all. It’s a shame, as the yarn is truly lovely – bamboo is very silky, surprisingly, and not rough at all. But this piece will be finished sometime next year, at the current rate of progress!



By contrast, I started this candy cane scarf on the loom sometime during Christmas holiday television watching, and it’s coming right along. It’s not so mind-numbing as other loom projects (we’re definitely learning they don’t have to be), and requires a fair bit of concentration, but it certainly goes quickly! It’s also turning out to be a really very thick double-knitted piece, and will be probably five feet long, if I’m guessing right. It’s quite stiff, probably because of the interchanging of the two colors. It’s also got an interesting little pocket kind of thing along the edge, which I suppose I could address by twining the two yarns at each end before starting back on that row … but I think that, since it’s already begun, and since I don’t want to go back to fix it, it’ll just have an opening on the side. Maybe I’ll run back over it & crochet it closed with a different color or something.



Also started fairly recently – probably around when we realized that the temperatures were hovering just around freezing for days at a time – is this scarf. I started it out on US size 6 (4.25mm) needles and then switched to US 10.5 (7mm) needles when I changed patterns. I’d gone far enough with the paired increase / decrease and determined that it was just taking too long, so I increased at the pattern change, to make it harder to tell that I’d changed needles. It’s going much faster now, and should give a nice warm scarf. I’m holding out for the candy cane scarf, though, for being the thickest and warmest, because this one will only be a single layer. Perhaps it’ll be a spring scarf.



Lastly for our works in progress … it’ll be the new year soon, so it’s time for us to make a concerted effort to get back into the mindset of eating properly. One of the largest adjustments for us in coming to Scotland has been the food. It’s not that we can’t get things, it’s that the things that we want to eat are simply not that common. Take tofu, for instance. In California, we’d simply pop by any grocery store & pick some up when we were running low. Here, picking it up from the corner store or the green grocer’s simply isn’t possible in our area – we must get it from either a specialty Asian market or must order it from a major supermarket. Another difference is that with our vegetable boxes in California we’d always have a good selection of green leafy veggies, even in the dead of winter, but here the boxes have defaulted to mostly root veggies … which invariably consist, dietarily, of not much in the way of fiber and plenty of starch. So, we’re lacking protein while making up for that, calorie-wise, with the addition of carbohydrate. When you figure in that we’ve also been baking for the holidays … well, you get the picture. So, the new year will find us thinking a bit more about what we’re eating, and focusing in on the addition of high-quality protein and green leafies.

As with everything, though, it’s a work in progress.

CCTV and Other Thoughts

Christmas this year was spent with… Skype. Skype is a computer-to-computer service that acts as a phone or videophone, and allows people who upload the service to get in touch for free, or call from a computer to a phone line for a minimal fee. It’s what enables our family to chat weekly without breaking our bank accounts.

During the traditional Christmas family brunch (our family never bothers with a big dinner, which seems to be the tradition in the UK — but then, in the UK, no one has Thanksgiving Dinner, which is our big thing), our sister brought her computer downstairs and turned on the little camera she’d purchased, and we were treated to the sight of those dear to us eating (waving food in front of the camera and saying, “These cinnamon rolls are so good — too bad you’re not here!”), opening gifts (Isn’t it funny how everyone cheers during a baby’s first Christmas, when he tears the paper to open his gifts? “Yay!” everyone says as he rips the wrapping paper. A month from now, this little turkey is going to rip up some bills. No one will cheer then, and he will be so confused!), and the kids zooming around the room, hopped up on carbohydrates and wrapping paper. Each family member took a moment to sit in front of the camera and chat for a bit before an elderly parent or a young child — or another cinnamon roll — called them.

(Speaking of elderly parents, we were also treated to our grandmother bewilderedly peering into the screen, saying, “Are they on TV?” That was amusing.) (Also amusing was 6 month old nephew’s profound preference for the boxes his gifts came in, and not the gifts themselves. WHY do people bother getting tiny children anything but empty boxes?)

The whole three hours of celebratory brunch was like a low-budget public access cable show that would have been broadcast during the hours of two and three a.m. when no one but insomniacs were watching. It was weird to just observe the members of our family. Hearing the banter and watching them was almost like being there, except that they kept forgetting that we were there. Every once in awhile, someone would look up at the camera and the computer screen and twitch as they saw our faces peering back. “Oh! You’re still there!”

Yep. Still there. Just taking it in. You don’t realize how much you miss just the everyday, mundane things your family does. There’s a strange kind of comfort in them being at ease enough to go on about their business, paying you little mind. It’s almost like being there.

“What if God was watching us like that?” someone mused, which brought down the house.

It was a good, if weird, way to be home.


Yesterday’s jaunt to Edinburgh was reported incompletely, as T. forgot to mention… the toilets.

Okay. “Two p. to pee” is a helpful, if not particularly couth saying which we heard even before we arrived in the UK. Somehow, though, it still hasn’t connected. T. will constantly go into a coffee shop to meet D., drop her bags, purse, coat, scarf, hat, etc. next to him, and race to the loo to wash up… and stop. Turn around. Return for her purse. Two pence is required for the turnstile to move.

These aren’t the on-the-street pay toilets that one can find in San Francisco and other major cities. These are toilets in stores. Mostly they’re in coffee shops located in malls or major bookstores. The bus station at Buchanan Street also has one of these little turnstiles (not only was it not even particularly clean, the turnstile didn’t move quickly, and people generally smacked into it on the way out), as do the airports. The University has toilet porters like we found in Germany — a woman sitting, knitting in an anteroom but no pay turnstiles. I know the concern is for safe, clean toilets. Which brings us to the mall in Edinburgh, where a safe clean toilet wasn’t ‘two p.,’ but twenty pence.

The toilets were at the opposite end of the giant mall from the coffee shop. Not only did T. have to walk back — twice — with the exact change — the turnstile was broken. The sweating little man letting lines of irate women in and out of the toilet was the icing on the cake. Eventually this will teach T. to carry her bulky and overly warm possessions with her, and brave the “Ick!!!” factor of having a coat and purse and bags and things in proximity to a germ-ridden public fixture — maybe. Carrying change in one’s pockets might be a better idea.

­Twenty pence to use the bathroom, ($.40 U.S.) is still confusing to a West Coast person used to swanning into every Taco Bell and gas station off the highway to take care of business, often without even making a purchase. I think it’s all in what one considers a right versus what is apparently here considered a privilege.

– D & T

What it’s like…

Today we visited with a friend and fellow blogger who’s also a transplant to these isles. Our friend Diane is originally from Toronto and relocated to Ireland a year ago. She’s visiting Edinburgh for a few days, so we took the train out there to have lunch & a chat, and to compare notes about the differences we’ve found in living where we do.

Diane, of course, has found the population of Ireland to be overwhelmingly Catholic, whilst we’ve found the Scots to be underwhelmingly Presbyterian. There are any number of differences other than religion, of course, but I realized that we’d forgotten to mention one of the differences: 30% of Glaswegians smoke. To us, coming from the San Francisco Bay Area, the clouds of smoke everywhere were the biggest shock. Surprisingly, though, that is apparently something which we didn’t feel the need to mention in our conversation. Could we have grown used to it, somehow? Resigned ourselves to it, perhaps.

Edinburgh is quite a different city, compared to Glasgow. Edinburgh seems to have a much more diverse population, and a higher degree of disposable income. The populace seems to go a bit faster, as well, and to be a bit more … well, intense. It’s funny – we both noticed that we were not really as visible to the Edinburgh-ites as we are the Glaswegians – people didn’t stare at us, since there seemed to be many more people from other cultures around, but we also felt strangely ignored. For all that Edinburgh is much smaller than Glasgow, there’s a big city feel about the place — it’s full of a sense of action.

It’s also full of street performers. Edinburgh is definitely a tourist town. We saw kilted pipers and players and sadly, quite a few beggars out in that bitter cold. We also met a lot more people selling things or giving things away — not just in the shopping district or train station areas as they seem to be in Glasgow, but all over. We were buttonholed by a nun from some religion or other (Bhagwani? Bhagita?) who went on and on and on and on, and we could not extricate ourselves from her rapid-fire conversation for at least twenty minutes. (We have got to learn to disengage, or else we’re going to end up hearing about every random charity and fringe society in the UK.) In a way, Edinburgh is a bit exhausting because there’s so much to see. We will have to visit a few more times before we stop looking like country yokels, eyes wide and mouths agape.

And while Edinburgh is smaller and more compact, it’s all set upon a series of hills, and it seemed harder to get a feel for where things are. Though we generally roll our eyes at doing the touristy thing, we took a bus tour after lunch, to get above the foot traffic so we could get a feel for where we were. The architecture is gorgeous, and even the modern sections have a feeling of immense age. The very few buildings which weren’t made of stone still managed to incorporate quite a bit of the local feeling, not sticking out with their own character so much as the buildings in Glasgow. In some areas, the stone was almost oppressive, topped as it was by brooding wall of cliffs and the castle, looking like a siege tower glowering down over the narrow streets of the town. It will be interesting to see it on a sunnier day. (And we do have better photographs taken with the actual camera; these are just the quick snaps from the phone.)

Note to others who wish to tour Edinburgh: Do not sit on the outside deck of a double decker bus in -2° weather. The wind isn’t so bad until it starts to rain — (and it will, inevitably, rain) — and then we didn’t get warm again until we got home hours later. The theory is that we got some great pictures, but they’re not processed, and we’re not thawed out enough yet to tell if they were worth it!! Next time we’re in Edinburgh, we’ll be there to look at the university, and we hope to do a little more on-foot exploration.

We really enjoyed meeting Diane, and after we parted company, we looked at each other and said in unison, “Doesn’t she seem like someone we know?” And then we laughed. Something about Diane reminded us of our lives in California. It wasn’t just that she also likes Dr. Who, or that she also complains that she can’t easily find decent tofu in the UK. There was something more… Something that made her like an old friend… T. finally figured it out at the train station. “She sounds like Helen Buttigieg! Helen is the host of a Canadian home DIY show called Neat which has quite the U.S. following. Diane’s precise Toronto vowels are just as aurally pleasing as Helen’s, and we’re sure her house is just as tidy and pulled together!

– D & T

You Know Your Friends Know You Well…

…When they give you vegetable jewelry for Christmas.

Yes. We are now the proud owners of a gold and enamel beet and turnip pin, and I apologize for the awful picture.

What an odd year its been. We started this blog to share Mac’s bread recipes with our friends, to talk about the produce from our out-of-control gardening, and what we did with our summer bumper crops. Who knew we’d get involved with so much else? We really appreciate the great people we’ve met talking about this bit of our lives, and we hope that you all have a marvelous holiday, doing the things you like best with the people you love most. Happy Holidays to you all!

Cheers!