Hobbits In Rivendell

Soup: one of those dishes that seems so easy… and can be so good. And then it can totally, fully, thoroughly screw up on you. It’s the alchemical thing, methinks. Some of us want to just throw everything and the kitchen sink in there. Consider mi papí, with his penchant for flinging fleshy huge mushrooms in EVERYTHING, or mi mama, with that unholy Creole trinity of green bell peppers, onions and celery — and I loathe bitter green bells and celery cooked. Shudder. Those were the soups of my childhood — limp, overcooked vegetables in a watery broth; or horrible broccoli soups with garish flavors all competing; soups layered with some floaty unidentifiable green stuff with a green bitterness undergirding it all. Long ago I determined that these are not the soups I will spend my adult life eating.

One of the best things I’ve discovered with soups is that it’s not too hard to tell what things go together, and what things don’t. Summer soups are easy — chuck fresh veggies in a clear broth, and serve with tortilla strips and a sprinkling of cheese or croûtons, and you’re good to go. Corn soup, fresh tomato gazpacho — yum. In the autumn, it becomes only slightly more complex: beans generally go with other beans, and tomatoes. (The Italians do that well with minestrone, or Pasta y fagioli.) Root vegetables go with root vegetables — carrots and potatoes go nicely with onions, and the Germans have even been known to add apples to that mix. (Or sweet potatoes and chestnuts! Mmmm!) It may not be to your particular taste, but they go well together, or well enough, anyway. Winter squashes make great creamy soups into which you can add pears or apples, and dried tomatoes make a great creamy soup all alone. It’s just when you start mixing things like broccoli, cabbage, tomatoes, mushrooms and beans that you run into trouble. Just add huge mushrooms, and you’re living my father’s dream, and my personal culinary nightmare

You know, the best fix for a bad soup? The stick blender, that model of culinary helpfulness, and a block of plain, pale, creamy, silken tofu. Theoretically you could fix a blended soup with mashed potatoes, but the consistency wouldn’t be quite as velvety. Ditto white cheeses or rice. The glutinous nature of these things means that eventually your soup would either break, and you’d have watery/creamy divisions, or it’d clump into something truly vile looking, or after blending it, you could be left with a grainy consistency like you get when you blend certain kinds of lentils (and note to the universe? Lentils? NOT meant to be pulverize-blended, okay? Let’s just all — stop that. Unless you’re going to add crème fraîche or curry powder, please don’t fully blend lentils into some hideous paste. Just. Don’t. Lentil soups deserve some chunks.). Tofu and a stick blender has turned out to be the ultimate soup saver for me. Too many veggies and hideously vying tastes? No worries. Just add plain tofu and blend. Funny colors, weird consistencies, and odd textures from limp, overcooked veg vanish magically when blended. I add a pinch of salt, a little wine, a dash of curry, and all is well. Because it’s not dairy based, the acid doesn’t curdle the tofu, and really, the soy protein in your soups means your meal will just stick with you a bit longer.

Since it really and truly is freezing for this part of the world — it was 22°F this morning (5.5°C for those Fahrenheit impaired), I am inspired to make a soup a day as the cold weather ramps up. I have a monster head of Nappa Cabbage in the fridge, so this is what I will try this afternoon:

Baechu Gook, As Adapted from Dok Suni, A Korean Cookbook

• Ingredients:
• 12 ounces Nappa cabbage
• 4 ounces white radish
• 4 ounces beef short ribs – or some vegetarian equivalent
• 4 ounces scallions
• 2 tablespoons soybean paste
• 6 cups water
• 1 teaspoon red pepper sauce
• 2 teaspoons crushed garlic

Instructions:

Clean the cabbage and shred with hands as desired, but in a wringing motion that will help soften the cabbage. Thinly slice the radish. Thinly slice the beef (or for me, it will be Quorn Naked Cutlets, which hold up well, and have scared some vegetarians into thinking I was feeing them chicken. Hee!) Cut the scallions (or leeks or onions, what have you) into 1-inch lengths. In a pot, dissolve soybean paste in the water (I think just adding a little silken tofu for smoothness will also work). For a smooth consistency, use a fine-mesh strainer with handle to remove the chunks of soybean paste floating in the soup and discard. Add the red pepper paste (Which I actually have! I knew I bought that for some reason), cabbage, beef, radish, scallion, and garlic and cook for 7 minutes over a high flame, then for 3 more minutes over a medium flame. Serve hot with white rice, kimchi, and sautéed anchovy (Um, again – an adaptation… no anchovies for me! And I’m amused at serving cabbage soup with kimchi, which is yet more cabbage, but… hey – this way I’ll use it up, right?).

I believe I’ll rummage around in the freezer and see if we have any frozen egg rolls left, steam a basket of rice, and voilá… dinner. I’ll let you know how it all goes.

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It’s ridiculous, the lengths some people will go to, to be holiday-esque.

The thought was: “Ooh! Chestnuts! Let’s roast them on our Thanksgiving beach bonfire!” The reality was: “The coast in November is bloody cold, and the windchill is making it below forty, and what were we thinking, bring a post-surgical child out here in the dark, not to mention trying to lug firewood and marshmallows out here while keeping track of irresponsible teen-aged pyromaniacs?!” So, no chestnuts roasted on an open fire (but marshmallows roasted over candles: good fun. Except for that bit with the sooty wax. And the skewers on fire. Look, I said pyromaniacs…) At any rate, post-holiday, we were left with a great bag of beautifully smooth nuts which look gorgeous, but which are just too …something for my taste. Sweet? Starchy? Something. Really, I’m just not that big on nuts, and I don’t care for even things like pecans and macadamia nuts, which most people are wild about, but I try to eat some nuts every once in a bit, because they’re supposed to be full of copper and trace elements Americans don’t get, unless they’re combined with sports and beer — which aren’t two of my big interests either. But I digress. Me, with bag of glossy brown nuts, rapidly rotting (NEVER have I run across any nut that decomposes so fast. Ugh!). So, my idea was an autumnal soup. I came up with one that combined a chestnut soup from a Vegan Lunchbox recipe with leftover roasted butternut squash and pureéd the whole thing. That cut the cloying sweetness/richness of the chestnuts, to good effect, but the fact is that peeling/shelling the rotten things was a huge pain in the neck — and in the thumbs. Tasty though it was, I am not surprisingly more fond of soups that take less work.

Now that the cool, wet weather has come in to stay for a bit, the farm is churning out those cool, wet weather veggies, most notably leeks and carrots, broccoli, cauli, and soon, peas. Apparently myriad other cultures have long regarded the whole carrot — as well as the tops of radishes, beets, and other greens part of the usual culinary circus, but most Californians I know don’t know what to do with any part of a carrot that isn’t orange. Admittedly, I used to put carrot tops in a vase and admire them for the fifteen seconds they would stay pretty, and my chiropop chick juices them — but then, she juices everything. (She also gives her sweater-wearing dog filtered water and B vitamins, so I’m going to reserve judgment on her input here.) I decided, since I have an abundance of carrots and leeks from the farm box this week, to see if they’d make a decent soup. I tasted a piece of the top, and determined that it was a flavor close enough to celery to work well.

I began by sauteéing onions and leeks, adding dry-leaf sage and then the chopped and cleaned carrot tops and six cups of stock. I finished with some mung bean noodles, just for fun, and it was really tasty. Mac suggested quinoa for next time, and I think carrot tops might also go well with barley. This is what I’m going to try next for my Carrot Top Soup:

• 1 ½ cup chopped carrot tops – and any carrots that go with them, diced *You can make this without adding the carrots; I did.
• 2 tblspns olive oil
• ½ cup short grain rice or quinoa
• 2 large leeks, white part only
• a clove of garlic, smashed, or 1 tsp. garlic paste
• one stalk of celery, diced
• 2 pinches of rubbed sage
• 2 tblspns chopped dill or parsley
• 6 cups vegetable stock, plus ½c. white wine
• Salt and pepper to taste

After sauteèing the leeks, garlic, carrots and celery in your olive oil for about five minutes, pour on the white wine, give it another minute or so, then add your broth and bring to bubbling stage. Once your broth and veggies are boiling, add in your rice or quinoa, and your sage, then simmer for fifteen minutes until tender. Add the chopped carrot tops and cook for 5 more minutes, mixing well. The Italians serve a soup much like this over garlic-rubbed bread and sprinkled with parmesan. You could also add cubed potatoes in lieu of quinoa or rice. One of the best things about soup is that you can hardly mess it up, so I always enjoy making whatever variations on a theme I can come up with. It combats the rain and fog fug, makes the house smell wonderful, and fills me up so I don’t overdose on the lovely cranberry muffins being churned out of the oven.

It may not be exactly ‘holiday-esque,’ but it’s seasonal, which lasts longer.

A note about the booze, Julia… After another email to my collegiate friend in Spain, I realized I have a habit of coming up with all of these great recipes where one can just drop in a bit of white wine or rum, and all will be well… This is to disprove the Booze As Food thing I seem to have going: For the under 21 set, lemon juice, vinegar, vegetable stock or possibly even V8 will work as well as the other libations I’ve suggested. Don’t let me get you into trouble, Julia… it would be a shame to get kicked out of your university just for cooking, after everything else…

Cheers!

This work is licensed under a
Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 3.0 License.