Randomly Reykjavik

Yesterday we left Glasgow for our extended travels. Below is the view from the airplane, in which we can just make out the Squinty Bridge, the Armadillo, and a few other locations. It’s rather a tumultuous leaving for us, as we lived in Glasgow itself for four years, and lived within an easy drive to Glasgow for the past year. We have committed to coming back, though, so we’ll regard this as just the beginning of the next phase of our relationship with Glasgow and Scotland.

Getting to Iceland 4

When deciding to leave Scotland, we decided that we needed a break somewhere along the way – to stop, regroup, and just relax for awhile. We’re in Reykjavik for just that reason, and to enjoy the 20+ hours of full daylight (well, OK, lightly overcast daylight) for a few days. We arrived yesterday and had to cast around for a bit to find our apartment rental. We ended up being dropped off at the Central Apartments instead of the Central View Apartments, but the lovely proprietor generously offered to ferry us to the right place – after telephoning and searching for it online and much fumbling about in search of the correct website. He was truly wonderful to us, and we’ve told him that we know where we’ll be staying when next we visit!

In any event, we arrived at our apartment at last after a terribly long slog which began at 6 a.m., when we arose to finally pack our luggage and clean the flat. Yes: we left it until the last day, but managed to finish packing and cleaning a good four hours before our flight, whence began the traveling part of the marathon of endurance. We took a taxi from the flat in Kilsyth with all of our various bags, as 1) we couldn’t face the idea of trying to get them onto a train, and 2) it may have cost £5 more to take the taxi. Then, the hauling of luggage began in earnest: 4 suitcases, 2 carry-on bags, 2 laptop bags, 1 camera bag, and 1 violin all had to make it into the terminal and onto the airplane. Fortunately, the check-in guy didn’t know how to charge for excess baggage, so took our two carry-on bags into the hold at ho extra charge, leaving us with computer bags and camera and violin.

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We arrived sweaty and miserably worn out, but also quite happy because we’re in a neighborhood which we know well and we have a kitchen this time around (last time we made do with putting food on the window sill and closing the curtains in front of them – it was Winter in Iceland, after all). So we dragged ourselves to the local market to pick up some food (we returned again this afternoon, as our shopping choices after 12 hours of packing and traveling were rather random), passing by our favorite church.

After a dinner of flatbread sandwiches we decided that we really ought to get to bed, despite the sun being still well up in the sky at after 10 p.m. We didn’t realize until this morning that we can hear the chimes of Hallgrímskirkja from our apartment (this, also, after D. had to pull up the blinds at 4 a.m. to verify that, yes, the sun was indeed well up in the sky, and after the travel alarm-clock went off at 6 a.m. as it had apparently been accidentally switched on during the transition). With that lovely realization (at the decent hour of 9 a.m.) we wandered off to have breakfast at the Loki Cafe. We arrived before the owner got there, and enjoyed a quiet conversation with the guy at the counter (he’s just finished high school in Spain, and will be off to college in Denmark next year) before breakfasting on some truly delicious Icelandic morning fare: T. had pancakes with cream and caramel plus a boiled egg, D. had a boiled egg sandwich on freshly-baked rye bread.

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After breakfast we went for a wander around Reykjavik. We’re surprised that so much has changed in just a year and a half since we were last here, but the graffiti art still persists, with something incredibly odd painted on just about every opportune side-of-building. The graffiti is one of those aspects of Reykjavik we particularly enjoy, and quite possibly shouldn’t be called graffiti, but more … “free mural art” or something.

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Some of the art projects are difficult to understand (“what’s up with the guy looking blissed-out with a sitar?”), as are some of the food items (“salty licorice chewing gum? really? let’s try some!”). T. refused to try any salty licorice flavored chewing gum, but D. couldn’t resist and pronounces it “mostly all right, after the initial saltiness wears off.”

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Tomorrow we’ll be off to the Blue Lagoon, to boil ourselves in volcano water for as many hours as we can stand it. Hopefully we’ll get some better pictures of the place, as there’s nothing which can really convey the sheer scope of the place. As it won’t be sub-freezing and snowing tomorrow, we do stand a pretty good chance of getting some decent shots.

We have no plans yet for Friday, although D. wants to take the elevator up Hallgrímskirkja for some panoramic views of Reykjavik, so that’s likely on the agenda for Friday. Then we’ll be returning to Keflavik Airport by bus, to brave another bit of extreme travel: over the North Pole when we’re so close to Solstice, to stop in Seattle for clearing customs, then on to San Francisco.

We’re enjoying Reykjavik, and trying to get in some good photography, but we’ve both realized why we didn’t last time: Iceland is such a relaxing and relaxed place that it’s difficult to get up the desire to push, to see, to do. Everyone seems happy to stop for a long conversation, and life seems quite a bit slower here than even Scotland seemed. So, while there will certainly be photographs, they’ll only serve to tease you with this place, and you’ll have to visit yourselves to see what it’s like.

-D & T

Those Tookish Hobbits

. . . the mother of this hobbit — of Bilbo Baggins, that is — was the famous Belladonna Took, one of the three remarkable daughters of the Old Took, head of the hobbits who lived across The Water, the small water that ran at the foot of The Hill. It was often said (in other families) that long ago one of the Took ancestors must have taken a fairy wife. That was, of course, absurd, but certainly there was still something not entirely hobbitlike about them, and once in a while members of the Took-clan would go and have adventures . . .

As they sang the hobbit felt the love of beautiful things made by hands and by cunning and by magic moving through him . . . Then something Tookish woke up inside him, and he wished to go see the great mountains, and hear the pine-trees and the waterfalls, and explore the caves . . .

~ J.R.R. Tolkien, The Hobbit

It started, more than anything, as a thing to pacify grieving. We said it to each other — “We’ll come back!” and “Surely we’ll come back,” and “Well, if the UKBA gets upset with us cancelling our visa application, we shouldn’t do it – we want to be able to come back.”

Coming back was obviously on both of our minds.

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But …why? Weren’t we the people complaining about the drunk Uni students singing Rule, Britannia! at 2 a.m. on Woodlands Road? Weren’t we the ones who had the neighbor with the six foot speaker and people sleeping in the hallway in front of his flat, on mattresses on Kent Road? Weren’t we the ones who got sick to death of opening the window and having grit blowing in — or worse, seeing BOOTS as the elevator went up and down the building on Cranston Street? Not to mention the people who peed on our back steps, the time we got the fly tipping ticket for doing what the rubbish collectors told us and putting our boxes next to the garbage bin, who hated stepping over vomit and other less savory things on the walks in various areas? Weren’t we the ones who moaned about the rain and the wind and the darkness? — and the SNOW!? Weren’t we the ones who hated it here?

Well, erm, yes. And, no.

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Into each life, a little rain must fall – well, A LOT of rain, if one is in Scotland. And, if you’re us, a lot of complaining and whinging and moaning about the things we deal with day-to-day. You, as unwitting members of our extended families, have heard all of our vexed complaints as well as our lighter moments, but you might have been able to step back from the Seurat-life in the making as we could not. Suddenly all of the impressionistic blotches that made up our day-to-day existence, when we stepped back to look, formed a life. A life that we were going to have a hard time giving up.

So, we told ourselves we were coming back.

And then, after our last concert, when T. was quietly mopping reddened eyes (much to the mockery of her dear Mr. S., who took one look at her and stared, mesmerized by horror. “You are not crying,” he stated, as if that would make it so. Foolish mortal.) we realized all the saying wasn’t going to make it true – unless we made an effort.

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T. learned that a friend-of-a-friend, an acquaintance whose blog she had lurked on, had died suddenly, from, of all horrible things, a pulmonary embolism. Because so many of our friends we only know through blogs, and, because her own mother escaped that just in November, she was horribly shaken. Coming back from the glorious weekend of music and cathedrals – we attended a lovely service at St. Mary’s, and went right on to rehearsal and did our concert after that – a long day, but well worth it — to find that life had ended, and everyone was left in grief and shock — that was awful. But, it underscored a horrific truth we often don’t want to face: stuff like that happens daily. Hourly. And the difference is the kind of life you live in between the darkness.

We didn’t want to be the people who always said we were “going” to do something, or wanted to do something, or planned and plotted for “someday.” That day, regrettably, has never yet arrived. Today is a much better option. As is, “now.”

Jane Yolen, celebrated author and poet, called American’s Hans Christian Anderson – lives half the year in Scotland, and half in New York. Author Elizabeth Wein – currently rising in the NYT bestseller list (T is ridiculously proud of her, and considers her a friend – albeit a friend who tried to kill us once, dragging to see salmon spawn on a drizzly day, when no one had on the right shoes) has lived here for many years now – and even has children with dual citizenship. There are others who come and go – but take pride in loving this prickly, cold, and sometimes difficult place.

Strangely, we do too.

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So, we’re coming back. At least a third of our lives will be spent here. We have no children, no dependents, nothing but the ties of love to knit us to other places – but the knitting is no less strong to this place. We’ll divide up the rest between necessity – seeing our family and living someplace warm enough to garden – but we have decided that it’s okay to leave our hearts here.

They’re in good hands.

So, we started this blog as Hobbits At Home, and later, Hobbits Abroad. We’ve lately wondered, now that we’re not quite going home, can we even be called Hobbits anymore? Aren’t hobbits the folk who stay at home and read and eat well, and basically just enjoy being somewhat hermit-y and nerdish and bookish and quiet? Well, yes. And, no. We’re the Tookish sort of Hobbit, descended from that one, quirky bit of lineage somewhere up the family tree – the ones who struggled with authority, the ones who never did fit into our regular lives very well, and the ones who are going to do this thing, this living thing, right for once.

We expect we’ll see you around, as we do it.

Notice
Steve Kowit

This evening, the sturdy Levi’s
I wore every day for over a year
& which seemed to the end
in perfect condition,
suddenly tore.
How or why I don’t know,
but there it was: a big rip at the crotch.
A month ago my friend Nick
walked off a racquetball court,
showered,
got into this street clothes,
& halfway home collapsed & died.
Take heed, you who read this,
& drop to your knees now & again
like the poet Christopher Smart,
& kiss the earth & be joyful,
& make much of your time,
& be kindly to everyone,
even to those who do not deserve it.
For although you may not believe
it will happen,
you too will one day be gone,
I, whose Levi’s ripped at the crotch
for no reason,
assure you that such is the case.
Pass it on.

~ from The Dumbbell Nebula, 2000

Iceland Bound

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SUCCESS! We have finally managed to retrieve our passports from the UK Borders Agency. Rather than sending them to the University (as instructed in the application, in the application withdrawal fax, and via the telephone), they sent them to our old flat. The one which sold…

Fortunately, the people at the University were on top of things and noticed that it’d been unable to be delivered, so D. went down to the Royal Mail Central Office in Stirling and begged – upon his knees (literally) – for them to search for the passports, telling them of the woes of being a student (in a broad, California accent) and having had the landlord sell the flat before the passports were returned. The kind gentleman of the post was unable to resist a large man kneeling before him begging and sent someone off to search (well, OK, D. doesn’t have a very loud voice, and was tired of shouting through the wee window). The ones that want to travel to Europe can always renew uk passport from usa as well.

20 minutes later, the passports were located: in a stack of mail to be returned to sender.

So, it is with a great mixture of glee and grief that we announce that we will be leaving this island, stopping off in Iceland for a few days (sans snow, huzzah!), visiting California for a restful four weeks or so, and then be moving on to the as-yet-undisclosed Caribbean Island Location. We will both be working from home, and will be splitting our time between visits to the mainland US, the warm island, and this cold island. We plan on returning to Scotland to spend a month at a time several times a year, in order for D. to visit his office, for us to see friends and to keep on singing with the City of Glasgow Chorus occasionally – who have recently announced a tour to Leipzig.

So, this time next week will see us packing everything into four suitcases, followed by a flurry of sunny pictures from Reykjavik (they have 20 hours of daylight, this time of year), followed by a return to California for the first time in two years. We’ll see some of you there.

-D & T

Transi(to)ry

Today is our last day in Cambusbarron, quiet village of sheep, mill buildings, and wind. At the moment, we’re supposed to be cleaning, packing up the last bits, etc., instead, we’re checking email and blogging as we don’t quite know whether we’ll be able to have reliable internet for the next few weeks.

As you may know, UKBA – the UK Border Agency – has had our passports since before February, and had made no progress on returning them to us. We’ve been advised by the University to cancel our visa extensions in order to travel. Apparently this won’t cause us any trouble in returning to the UK for visits, because they are at fault – after personnel cuts, they’re just too overwhelmed with the visa for the Olympics (and some some MAJOR technical difficulties – all is not well in UKBA Paradise). A lack of visa is also the case for our erstwhile Elijah for the May 26 performance of Mendelssohn’s beloved oratorio: he’s stuck in Brazil, and has been waiting for weeks, so our maestro has had to frantically locate someone else – which is a real shame, because Mr. de Souza, who sang Belshazzar’s Feast with us last year, has a stunning voice.

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After withdrawing our visa application, we expect to receive our passports within the next three weeks, and to travel at the beginning of June, first to Iceland, to spend a few days in Reykjavik, then home to California for a long-overdue long visit – all this, if the passports arrive in time for such leisure. After California, we’re off to Puerto Rico – we don’t know where, exactly, yet. We’ll certainly let you all know when we figure it out, though. This is the result of D. continuing a relationship with his boss here in the UK and beginning a relationship with universities in PR. We’ll keep you posted…

85 boxes / items shipped out this past Friday, on their way to our new home. All that remains to us is 4 suitcases, several computer bags, cameras, and D’s violin. We’re really hoping that it’s not that cold in Iceland, as we recently realized that between us we have a cardigan and two jackets… by the way, yes, there are gusts of wind in the tornado range, and it’s pouring. Why, yes, thank you, we DO feel intelligent sans coats…!

Believe it or not, we have a concert this evening!! Our last time singing choral classics, then we’ll pick up our suitcases and change addresses for – hopefully – only three weeks.

And now, to close down the network here, prepare for the concert, throw the last few food items into a laundry basket, and walk away yet again. Six moves in the last five years… oy. We are not home yet…

Thank you for coming along for the ride.

-D & T

May 1, In Retrospect

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It’s been awhile since we’ve done one of our “in retrospect” posts. Actually, it’s been a long while since D. has devoted much attention to doing posts of any sort other than “links” posts for classmates, and we’ve determined that … well, that’s about enough of that. So.

The two photos to the left may or may not have been taken on May 1, but were at least scanned into the photo scanner on May 1, which is close enough. They’re photos from one of our favorite places: Palm Desert. No, not Palm Springs (that derided mecca of matching pastel track suits and golf widows), but of the desert proper. Palm Desert is fantastic because it’s a really small town, stuck way out in the middle of nowhere, and it has a series of hot springs with pools. We love to swim, and are particularly enamored of being able to swim in varying temperatures of mineral water. We have happy memories of this place … including the memory of renting a hotel room which was absolutely saturated with cigarette smoke, and which we fumigated with some absolutely horrible incense (nag champa) in an effort to combat the stench. T. will claim that D. just can’t relax and take a vacation, so awakened them at 3 in the morning to drive back to the Bay Area. This is a lie. It was all about the stench. Truly.

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When we first arrived in Glasgow, we discovered Kelvingrove Museum. It’s the second-most-visited museum in all of the United Kingdom, and we really understand why: it’s a fabulous place. Some (*cough*, Mrs. B. *cough*) say that it’s not organized properly, but we’ve found that it’s an enjoyable place to visit, particularly on a rainy day, or on a Sunday when there are organ concerts. We’ve spent many happy hours at Kelvingrove. It encourages you to linger and investigate, to explore and try to understand the past. It has bits which are obviously for children, and is mostly a teaser for history: it says, “there was all of this stuff going on, please continue to investigate.”

The museum used to belong to one guy (Lord Kelvin) and was his town home. It’s very hard to fathom something so immense just being somebody’s house for occasional use, particularly when you consider what’s packed into it today. Its collections far exceed what’s on display, as is the case with so many museums, but if you’re good (and have a silver tongue) you just might manage to work your way behind the scenes and see some of the things which seldom make it to the public eye. It’s not just a museum, is the point: it’s someplace which collects rare items so that they’ll be preserved for further study.

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Adjacent to the museum is Kelvingrove Park. We particularly enjoyed wandering through it when we lived in Glasgow, as it’s a great example of an urban park. Fountains, ponds, ducks, roses, and the floral gardens make it memorable for most. Additionally, fabulous views of the University, and a quiet space in the midst of all of the chaos which is Glasgow were what made it a haven for us. Also, the random cat.

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Artichoke

Of course, around Glasgow there are any number of interesting (and odd) things to see. 19th century iron cobblers’ forms? Yep. Just hanging out on the side of the road somewhere. Randomly-painted doors? But of course! Antique, blown-glass windows? Certainly! Glasgow is such a hodge-podge of the historic and the modern. We’re glad to be out of the noise, and away from the students (if we never hear someone singing at 2 a.m. again, we’ll be quite happy), but we truly enjoyed “Glesga” while we were there. Glasgow has so much, bodged in randomly amongst the detritus. You just have to really get in there and look to see.

If you ask anyone from around here what they think of Glasgow, they’ll either love it or they’ll hate it, and that love or hate depends upon whether you love it or hate it: everyone seems to have this love/hate relationship with “the filthy city.” It’s huge, it’s a conglomerate of a bunch of neighborhoods, each of which has its own character and history, and it’s truly its own place. Only if you’ve lived there would you be able to truly understand what Glasgow means, which is to say that Glasgow is an unique experience. Neither entirely good, nor entirely bad, Glasgow has been… an experience.


As we prepare to leave this island, we’re looking backward, remembering how we got here, and who we were back then. We’re wondering what it is that we want out of life. We’ve lived in so many places, now, and have found things we love about them all. What is it we’re seeking? As others ask the question we realize that we don’t really know. The next adventure? Just to prove to ourselves that we aren’t going to be so busy working that we forget to live? Just to escape responsibility, in the form of children? ☺ Does anyone, ever, really know what they want out of where they’re going, unless they take the time to stop… and ask themselves?

In the interim of answering some of life’s deeper questions, we have a short-term plan: we’ll be living in Kilsyth, the town that introduced curling to Scotland (what a claim to fame!) for a few weeks, and will stay there until our passports finally make their way back from the UK Borders Agency (they told us this morning FOURTEEN WEEKS. They had better be exaggerating. If we have to miss niecelet’s graduation…). At that point, we’ll pin down our plane tickets and will return to California for a break of several weeks. We’re still awaiting a job offer from the company based in the Dutch Antilles (and will update you as we know details), but fully expect them to come back with something which means we’ll presently find ourselves on yet another island – this one much more like Arizona, but surrounded by the blue Caribbean. The vast majority of our belongings will eventually make their way to California and go into storage until we send for them, and we’ll be living out of 4 suitcases for the foreseeable future.

Life remains undefined, at this moment. The past holds countless gems which we treasure. We can now put them away, knowing that the future will hold even more.

-D & T

PhD, Complete!

PhD Completion Letter

Well, folks, the PhD is officially complete. I’ve filled out the form to graduate in absentia at the end of this month, and they’ll be sending “the parchment” along sometime in May. This marks the end of a long and truly strange journey, and is hopefully certainly the last degree I’ll ever receive.

Who knows where we’ll end up next? We certainly do not, but we’re investigating all manner of things. When we arrive, we’ll let you know.

If you’d like to read the product of 4 years of work, it’s available from the University Library at theses.gla.ac.uk/3286 and is also at hobbitsabroad.com/MacknetThesis.pdf.

-D

potpourri & errata

““Adventure is a path. Real adventure – self-determined, self-motivated, often risky – forces you to have firsthand encounters with the world. The world the way it is, not the way you imagine it. Your body will collide with the earth and you will bear witness. In this way you will be compelled to grapple with the limitless kindness and bottomless cruelty of humankind – and perhaps realize that you yourself are capable of both. This will change you. Nothing will ever again be black-and-white.” – Mark Jenkins, travel writer

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A bit of this, a bit of that, this post. First, we’d like to officially explain to the wee hag tromping out in the garden in her wellies that it’s time for her to shove off for the season. But Winter seems rather of a mind to stay for another weekend or three, park on the porch, blow cold all over everything, and criticize our efforts at bundling up. She continues to inconvenience us all with sadistic joy – having been a guest we’d not minded too much lo, these last months, she’s making sure that just before she goes, we remember her. BRRR!

Before the auld hag decided to give us one last memorable blow, Spring was, in fact, springing right along. The snowdrops didn’t show this year – perhaps not enough snow? – but the crocuses are well up (and withered, because of the latest frost), and we even managed to have daffodils in time for St. David’s Day, which was the first of March. As always, those of Welsh ancestry here put a daff in a buttonhole or in their hair – some of them not forced in greenhouses, but picked from the yard or the side of the road. Tulips, which are generally only in bloom here during the last days of April and into May, are pushing up already. The fields – never wholly leaving off their greenery – have shed their dead frozen browns and fairly glow with new life; a few of the more gullible trees have grudgingly put forth a few tentative buds. The hedgerows – always the last to believe that winter has passed – will not be far behind.

In the field next door, the farmer has out new breeding stock. The sheep all have blue bottoms, to show they’ve been visited, and they’re carefully brought in each night to prevent any crafty rams from … perhaps opening the gate and wandering into the field? Prevent competing farmers from wandering off with their impregnated stock? Who knows.


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We met with friends for dinner in the city the other night. We’d planned to celebrate a few things – T. finishing another manuscript, getting a really good reviews from Kirkus for her upcoming release, and, quietly a birthday, as well as celebrating D. finishing his corrections. He, alas, disobliged us and has not yet quite finished (having had to finish corrections for a journal piece first). Being of a thorough mien – and not at all interested in further rounds of correction – he’s taken his time, but promises that he’ll be finished before Monday, and has planned a meeting with the advisers again for next Tuesday. Meanwhile, T. is still celebrating, since her mother got her personalized balloons… if you have a remotely unusual name, much of your adolescence seems to be spent searching for versions of your name on license plate key chains and T-shirts. T. is still pleased out of all reason with having her name put on a balloon. Oh, and on, you know, book covers. Compensations for adolescence at last.

On the job front – academic work remains scarce, and applying for multiple jobs seems to be as effective as shouting down a well. In many ways, it’s “who you know,” and D. is trying to decide whether he wants to exploit some connections or if he even wants to work within academia. He’s slightly burnt out on the whole thing. Time will tell. Meanwhile, we finally got the online appointment-maker to work, and are set up to give our biometric details to the UK in return for them extending D’s student visa to August. And then, it’s goodbye Scotland (or, we’re told, we could take a 3-hour train trip to Aberdeen, on the off-chance that they would do our biometric ID’s on a walk-in basis and that getting our biometric ID’s done would speed the process and give us the chance to apply and pay £1,000 for new visas, yay!).

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That’s something that rattles around in our heads every day – we are already a little sorry not to have taken pictures backstage at the Royal Concert Hall because “our Christmas show was the last time we’re going to perform there!” We have “last time”-itis, a disease that can strike the victim with intermittent bursts of nostalgia. T. finds herself a little teary-eyed at the end of chorus each week, because this is the last season and the last time we’ll rehearse to sing a Choral Classics concert… (which isn’t quite true; we may have one more in May). Lately she’s been sad that she didn’t buy the score to the Berlioz Te Deum and chose to rent instead. Not that all the scores on earth will be lost after the performance – or even tomorrow – but no, the one marked-up from these rehearsals is the one she wants, and is finagling her way into buying a fresh clean score (she claims that she got the one she has wet in the rain, so it shouldn’t be returned, as it’s damaged) to return with the rented ones, and keeping the other… She does not believe she will regret renting the score to Karol Szymanowski’s Stabat Mater, however, because she’s having trouble falling in love with it – which is rare. We have several weeks of rehearsal left before our April 21st performance of that, so time will tell… perhaps she’ll find herself weepy over the clashing modal pitches and parallel vocal movements, which give a plaintive, lamenting sound to the work (it only makes sense, after all Stabat Mater references Mary as “standing mother,” who stood and wept at the cross. A Stabat Mater is a simpler form of requiem.)

All in all, chorus is going well, our Benign Dictator, er, Director, continues to grumble and insult us throughout rehearsals, and and this time around, the doors remain open for tenors (although D. would REALLY like for there to be no more, and particularly no more who are both loud and off-key and can’t count!) and basses (they burble along and who knows / cares if they’re on pitch)) as well as first sopranos (there are enough of them, if only they had some power in their voices) and altos to join even now. However, with the addition of a few gents after Christmas, the tenors are finally coming quite loudly into their own – let’s emphasize quite loudly – they’re so loud that they’re coming into someone else’s own at times, but they’re balancing out. (D. wears an earplug on the left side, so as to be able to hear anything other than … well). The second sopranos continue to be superb, of course. They even have purple pencils which say so.


In response to a few requests, we are, with much amusement, going to post more pictures of our food. While we can no longer in any fashion consider ourselves food bloggers, we still haven’t broken the habit of snapping a shot of the odd cake or icing attempt. In truth, we get ideas visually all the time for meals and that’s why food magazines – or, magazines marketed to women, anyway – have a wealth of glossy, hyper-realistic photographic food images. Our food will *never* photograph that well, but that only means it’s not Photoshopped plastic, and it’s edible…

First up is the classic Southern Italian ribollita. It’s served in many an Italian restaurant, but it’s definitely country food – it’s the Italian equivalent of beans on toast. The word literally means “reboiled,” and apparently, in feudal times peasants gathered the leftovers from the trenchers of their “betters” and dumped them in a pot at home with a little cabbage or kale. The dish always includes leftover bread… so imagine them really clearing the table, and eating after the lords, plate and all.

Ribollita 1

Our ribollita included bread, but not much bread lasts long enough in this house to go stale! We used instead a chewy and tangy sourdough toast with flax seeds which we made with whole wheat flour – but apparently this batch used white winter wheat, because the bread looks very golden blonde – probably from the flax! Anyway, simmering some lovely cannellini beans, zucchini, onions, carrots, chunked tofu and crushed tomatoes made our “soup” which we garnished with a few shreds of parmesan. Sadly we had no cavolo nero – the dark, leafy Italian kale – or it would have been perfect. As it was, it neared perfection well enough, managing to be both toast and veggie soup at once.

We are eating tons of lentils these days – they’re such a good, inexpensive source of protein that there’s certainly reason to add them to anything. (We were a little alarmed at Alton Brown’s lentil cookie recipe, but… there’s truly no reason to add them to anything. Even cookies… We’ll be trying those… eventually.) We make lentil soup – curried mulligatawny for T., and a blended lentil and veg soup for D., which T. says looks like sludgy brick mortar, because he blends it too much — but, to each their own.

We grew up with lentil loaves, but that’s not been one of the things we’ve made, because… well. As we said: we grew up with lentil loaves. Like a casserole, the “loaf” tends to be considered potluck food, akin to the omnivore cafeteria lunch “mystery meat.” It’s something which might be good, depending on whose mother made it. T. claims that her mother’s lentil loaf was pretty good, but not something even that cookery paragon made very often. D. doesn’t much remember his mother making lentil loaf, but lentil patties, instead… regardless, none of these memories were as clear as they should have been, so we decided it was time to resurrect this dish to see if there’s a reason we don’t make it.

Lentil Gluten Roast

Sadly, no, we did not use the Magic Loaf Generator for this dish. (It is, however, still there for YOU to use!) T. based her sort of thrown-together recipe idea not on past loaves she’s known, which generally call for Special K (?) and eggs, but on on IsaChandra’s lentil meatballs at the Post Punk Vegan blog. She started with minced garlic scapes – hard-stemmed garlic – from the veggie box, and boy, that stuff brings tears to the eyes. Ditto the minced yellow onion. She pulverized a box of stale crackers – about a half cup – then added a quarter cup of nutritional yeast. Two cups of vital wheat gluten, a quarter cup of oat bran, a teaspoon each of sage and oregano, a quarter cup of oil, two tablespoons of soy sauce, a quarter teaspoon of liquid smoke and two teaspoons of dried vegetable bouillon followed. Finally, two cups of lentils in their leftover juice, which was about another cup of broth. This was stirred together until the gluten saturated, and then it had to be kneaded by hand. They didn’t want to come together in anything but small blobs, but this actually is a good sign – we didn’t want them to be too dense. We formed the disparate blobs into temporary loves and lobbed them into two oiled loaf pans.

One loaf got a treatment of about four tablespoons of hot sauce, and the other did not – but both baked for forty-five minutes, covered with foil. They emerged browned and luscious looking with a great savory smell, juicy, meaty texture, and amazingly good flavor. D. suggested slathering his with ketchup; T. …shuddered, and opined that she would prefer hers with spicy apple chutney or mushroom gravy with, say, a fluffy almond studded quinoa, garlic “mash” or veg like peas or corn or kale on the side. It’s a perfect main dish, or lends itself to being cubed into salad or roughly chopped and included in the mother of all omelets. It goes really well in a hearty sandwich with all of the fixings. Most people can’t do that with the traditional squishy potluck loaf.


Stirling 219

Because D. no longer gets a Word of the Day from his old coworker, ‘Drew, we’ve been a bit short on an organized collection of Scottish commentary. We do enjoy the bits from the the writer at the Caledonian who parses “Useful Scots Words,” and also find that, on the whole, just about everyone we know is full of uniquely Scottish things to say, and we don’t need much help locating creative speakers. As our time here ticks down, we find ourselves hoarding up the clever and amusing wordplay as we find it.

Just the other day, one of D’s coworker whom T. calls Thing 1 (referencing The Cat in the Hat book by Dr. Seuss – Thing 1 and Thing 2 have the same name; in this case, he’s a David, too) told him that Scots must always discuss the three w’s – Weather, Women and Wine. Well! In honor of National Women’s History month, and because she strutted and vamped and begged D. to snap her picture (and was pole-dancing on a light-pole), we present for your edification today’s personification of Spring.

Also known as The Stirling Gel, she was downtown the other day, showing off her boa, hat, and floral frock – and probably freezing her wee elbows off, but oh, well. Spring is a dashing lass, whose sheer chutzpah will harry along the auld wee hag, Winter, soon enough. We think our Stirling Gel is a perfect personification, and suspect she might have made her dress herself.

And, that’s all the news from Cambusbarron, where it seems all the women are strong, all the men are good looking, and all the sheep are blue-bottomed.

A Wee Update

Gingerbread Valentine 09

Just realized that we hadn’t actually communicated for awhile except for D’s “links” posts and that we really owe everybody at least a brief update on what’s been going on here in the hinterlands.

Hi. How are you? How are your jobs and your pregnancies and your new babies and your grandkids and your snow packs and your woodpiles and your new cars and your lives?

As for us, we’re… fine. Working. Boring, huh? But, that’s how it is, this time of year. Nothing going on, but some spots of brightness as we watch movies (latest, “Adam’s Rib”, 1949, with Spencer Tracy and Katherine Hepburn – where they play a slightly surreal spousal lawyering team — what were they thinking with that weird Adam crying plot twist?), crowing over the orchids both blooming (Okay, that’s only T.), figuring out new uses for mint (a spectacular apple and carrot salad – the mint added just the right touch), and otherwise trying to insert spice into the last bits of winter’s dreich and snell.

We’ve done a little baking (those gingerbread hearts were shared with everybody who came to rehearsal on Valentine’s Day). We used the basic recipe from Bakerella, with added spices, but found we needed to frantically adjust it by adding additional liquid. As is sometimes the case, both wheat and white UK flours can be very dry as compared to US flour. Sometimes this isn’t the case, so we’re not sure what went on, but apparently this batch just… was. This had to be the stiffest cookie-dough we’ve ever dealt with, to the point that it actually sheared off one of the dough-hooks of our wee hand-mixer. (Yes, we miss the Kitchenaid. But, we’re glad it’s in a good home, and kept very busy!) We haven’t done any more gluten-free baking just yet, but have sampled some store-bought gluten free baked goods. We can see a real need to learn to bake one’s own!

Hayford Mills 279

Speaking of snow packs – we actually got a tiny bit of snow over the weekend, but it didn’t stick, just came down in crisp little bubbles and melted. As the light has grown longer – at last! – D. is no longer both leaving the house and returning in the dark, but we’re both enjoying sun in the kitchen in the morning on the weekends (it doesn’t really get in there until half past nine) and sunsets – gloriously pink and lavender and orange.

We’ve both been rather wrapped up in writing – T. because she’s been cursed tasked with doing a production breakdown of her last novel to be shopped around to movie producers, and D. because he’s still mired in corrections and dissertation revisions. T. was told that her write-up is finally in shape, so she can go back to pushing herself to finish her mystery novel – hurray! – and any other straight fiction writing with non-technical jargon such as “logline” and “beat sheet” and the like. D. is trying to meet the self-imposed deadline of the end of February for his write-up, giving him the chance to get the corrections approved earlier than expected, and to get back to the focus of figuring out where we’re going and what we’re doing next. T. has been holding off doing a thorough Spring cleaning to the house, since she tries to stay quiet on the weekends – but soon her excuses will be gone. She is regretful of this already, but plans to draft D. into furniture hauling, vacuuming floors, and window washing. Heh, heh.

Around Glasgow 567 HDR

In chorus, we’re prepping for two concerts – and are slightly disappointed to note that we’ll not be singing in Polish. Apparently one of the soloists quit, and the task of replacing the soloists and getting another up to speed in the language for the Syzmonowski was just a bit too much, with the concert coming quickly next month. Otherwise, we’re moving right along learning the Berlioz Te Deum, and looking forward to rehearsing with our divided choir and the children’s chorus, which will make the music spectacularly chaotic and noisy. In a good way. Seriously.

We’ve been enjoying the fact that we bought a container of suet-balls for the wild birds and have strung them in the trees outside our windows, in the hopes that we can someday get a decent picture of some of the bird life which frequents the garden. In addition to the ever-present magpies, we’ve identified a twitter of tits; blue tit, longtailed tit, stone chat, whin chat, and twite, which is not really a tit, and looks an awful lot like a house wren. (Also, it’s a bit awkward discussing birds in D’s office of a morning. He rolls his eyes a lot.) Of course, none of those really wants to hold still for its picture to be taken (although back in November T. caught a picture of a juvenile goldfinch, shown to the right). Hayford Mills 153 We’ve also had jackdaw, rook, and carrion crow going after the suet balls, but D. has strung the most recent batch onto much smaller twigs, in the hopes of discouraging the larger birds. However, crows are horribly smart, and once they know there’s food on offer… well. You can’t get rid of crows of any kind. And don’t ever throw things at them. They remember. And tattle. And plague. We just might have to get used to our little murder…

The hunt for academic jobs for D. is sort-of on hold until the thesis gets completely accepted and he can say that he’s well and truly done. He’s applied for a few positions which sounded interesting and which had early deadlines, but the hunt begins anew in earnest after next weekend. Our passports are still away with the UK Borders Agency, getting the student visas extended through until well after graduation, so hopefully we’ll be able to plan some travels soon – the visa process could take until mid-March or so, though, so until then we’re stuck with staying in the country. This creates a slight problem, as D. can’t plan to go on interviews except for within the UK. C’est la vie.

And that’s about where things are with us. T. plans to sit in on her grandmother’s memorial service via Skype – which shows how far technology has come. No passport? No ticket home? No problem. Meanwhile, D. has a pair of roller skates he’s also chomping at the bit to try one weekend day it’s not icy – but nothing doing, until those corrections are done… ::sigh::

Aside from that, not much terribly exciting going on, just continuing on with the work before us, trying to get through it and come out the other side.

And that’s us. So, how are you?

-D & T

Famous Friends

Tallinn 063

Back when our blog was named “Wish I Were Baking,” and when we actually made an effort to focus on food and the occasional knitting project, we met a blogger by the name of Pille whose beautiful food blog was an inspiration – and also kind of terrifying, as she baked and cooked seemingly endlessly, plating up perfectly turned out dishes, photographed stunningly, nearly every day. Also, she hunted for wild mushrooms, gardened, picked berries, canned, made jams… you get the picture. We – Hobbits now – still know her, and are applauding from the blogosphere sidelines. This month, she’s on the cover Estonian version of “Family and Home” magazine!

Tallinn 126

As mentioned, we met Pille through her blog and actually got the chance to meet her when we first got to Scotland, as she was finishing up the last details from her PhD here and we overlapped by a weekend. We met her again for lunch when we went to her lovely country, Estonia, for a work-related trip for D. We ate outdoors at a Russian restaurant, and enjoyed an unusual meal (still not sure how we feel about pickles and honey), surrounded by a historical festival in the ancient part of the city, with stunningly costumed dancers and singers. It was like Estonian Disneyland, seriously, only far better. Eventually, Estonia will figure into our travel plans again, and we’ll finally meet Pille’s adorable kids.

Since she’s published a cookbook, Pille has obviously been in print before. She was in the Estonian Marie Clare a while ago, listed as a successful chef and mother, and certainly her food has been included in magazine spreads all over, complete with her sharp photography, but she’s never been a cover girl until now.

Congratulations again, Pille & family! We can now say “we knew you when!”

-D & T

Behold! The PhD Is Done (ish)

Today’s Best Line: “Congratulations! You’ve passed your PhD!”

Today’s Second Best Line: “You know I’m never to call you Doctor, right? Ever.”

Glasgow Fireworks 2009 D 83

Well. I passed the viva voce exam today, receiving 2 months in which to complete “minor corrections.” I defended my PhD thesis, and have no substantive changes to make. Now, by “substantive,” they mean that, “it’s good research, there are no flaws in the methodology or in the information presented, but you need to make it hang together a bit better – to tell the reader what you’re going to say, to walk them through the whole research a bit more, to join the bits together.” So – my guess is that that means about 40 or so more paragraphs in which I break things down for a larger audience, a bit of re-captioning, and (of course) the inevitable few typos which sneak into any large body of work.

Does this feel “real” yet? Well … not so much. I think it’ll feel more real when I really get through with making these changes. However: the research and degree have been defended to everyone’s satisfaction, and I have until the end of March to nail down the last few changes and get them approved by the internal examiner. So. I guess, put that way, it’s real.

What this means for us, in the short-term, is that we’ll be extending the student visas for a short time, and that we’ll also be able to qualify for post-study-work visas. The post-study visa allows us to stay here for another 2 years – and lets me find the right research job, rather than having to jump at whichever position is willing to take me immediately.

We have some celebrating to do (or, perhaps, sleeping, since I haven’t really slept in the last four days). We feel much safer, as we have a bit of breathing room.

-D

Edited To Add: Yes, that same won’t-call-me-doctor voice keeps saying, “I told you it would be fine.” Perhaps after a good night’s sleep, I’ll stop hearing that little mutter following me around…